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High Strung: A Classic Crack Climb in Wonderland of Rocks

Joshua Tree, California United States
single pitch
crack climb
trad
5.9
desert
Joshua Tree
protection to 4 inches
bolted anchor
east face
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
High Strung
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"High Strung confronts climbers with a sustained 5.9 crack climb on Foolproof Tower’s east face, blending technical jams and widening crack sections. This single-pitch classic in Joshua Tree is a must for trad climbers seeking a balanced challenge amid stunning desert terrain."

High Strung: A Classic Crack Climb in Wonderland of Rocks

High Strung strides boldly along the left edge of Foolproof Tower’s east face in Joshua Tree National Park, offering climbers a quintessential crack experience that's both engaging and approachable. From the ground up, the climb challenges the body and mind with a blend of technical moves and shifting crack widths that reward careful footwork and thoughtful protection. The route begins with a technical, bouldery move that tests your balance and control, immediately pulling you into the rhythm of the climb. As you ascend, the crack widens gradually, encouraging a dynamic style that shifts from tight jamming to face climbing and hand jams. This subtle change compels climbers to adjust their technique on the fly, making every move feel fresh and purposeful.

The rock of Foolproof Tower is a rough companion, providing confident friction beneath your fingertips while the warm California sun warms the array of desert plants below. The stark openness of Wonderland Valley spreads eastward like a living breathing entity, the wind often whispering through creosote and juniper as it dares you upward. Midway through, you encounter a stretch where the crack opens to wider hands and fists—gear placements here demand vigilance, suggesting protection up to four-inch cams to safely guard the upper half of the pitch. The anchors sit comfortably on a broad ledge, offering reprieve and a sense of accomplishment before you descend.

High Strung’s single pitch covers roughly 80 feet of sustained, varied climbing. Its 5.9 rating feels true to form—with no surprises but enough sustained difficulty to keep you honest. It’s a crucial notch in the trad climber’s belt, perfect for those looking to refine crack technique while basking in Joshua Tree’s raw, sun-drenched atmosphere. The climb's exposure is gentle, making it inviting for intermediate climbers aspiring to push their limits on rock with clean protection and clear movement.

Gear-wise, prepare for a set of cams up to four inches. While smaller pieces will get you through the lower moves, the upper crack widens enough to challenge your rack and protect your confidence. The bolted anchor offers quick rappels via 3/8” rings, streamlining your descent back to base. Plan your trip for the cooler parts of the day, as this east-facing wall surrenders to desert heat by midday, but basks in crisp morning light that energizes your climb.

Access is straightforward from the main trail, taking about 15-20 minutes on foot with a moderate approach that meanders through low brush and sun-baked granite slabs. Carry sufficient water and dress for temperature swings common in the desert, especially in spring and fall. High Strung is more than a climb—it’s a moment in Joshua Tree where skill meets landscape, where every jam and foot placement pushes you closer to the pulse of the rock beneath your hands.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose rock chips in the lower bouldery section and ensure placements are secure in the upper wider crack to avoid potential gear pullouts. The ledge anchor is spacious but exposed; maintain attention during the rappel and retrieval to avoid rope rub on edges.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the intense midday desert heat on this east-facing climb.

Bring a full set of cams up to 4 inches; the upper crack jogs wider.

Approach involves a 15–20 minute walk over moderate desert terrain with sparse shade.

Water and sun protection are vital—carry more water than you think you'll need.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating reflects a solid and continuous crack climb with moderate technical demands. The grade here doesn’t feel soft; the initial bouldery start and the wide crack at the top provide a subtle crux that keeps this route engaging without overwhelming intermediate climbers. Compared to other Joshua Tree climbs, High Strung stands out as a reliable 5.9 with a balance of jamming and face climbing moves.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack with cams up to 4 inches is essential due to widening crack sizes on the upper section. The anchors are bolted with 3/8" rings for safe and quick rappel.

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Tags

single pitch
crack climb
trad
5.9
desert
Joshua Tree
protection to 4 inches
bolted anchor
east face