5.9, Trad
Adin
California ,United States
"High C offers a highly engaging single-pitch trad climb on Pigeon Cliff’s East Wall. A bolt-protected crux opens into a sharpening hand crack that demands precise technique and deliberate gear placements. Perfect for climbers seeking a manageable but rewarding crack climb in northeastern California’s wild talus."
High C stakes its claim on the far right flank of Pigeon Cliff’s East Wall, offering climbers a compact, focused test of skill in Northeastern California’s high desert. The route unfolds over a single 50-foot pitch that demands attention from the outset. Your fingers will find their challenge on a slender bolt-protected crux near the base, where thin moves require precision and calm. Above this pivotal moment, the climb shifts into a pure hand crack that gradually opens, inviting steady jams and secure placements as you ascend into clean air.
The rock invites a tactile connection—a blend of gritty texture and solid edges, giving you confidence as you move upward. This climb is practical in its setup: the approach is straightforward, with a well-defined gully leading close to the top, making it easy to rig top-rope anchors if you prefer to rehearse the moves before leading. The bolt, replaced by the American Safe Climbing Association in late 2019, strengthens safety without compromising the route’s natural challenge.
Accessible in a region known for remote, rugged landscapes, High C is a concise encounter with quality granite that rewards attention to detail. It’s well suited to climbers comfortable with crack tactics but looking for a route that doesn’t demand a full day. Expect clear skies and expansive views framing your ascent, with the East Wall’s orientation offering morning warmth and afternoon shade.
For gear, bring a rack extending up to 4 inches to reliably protect the widening crack, plus quickdraws for the bolt and anchors. The route’s modest star rating reflects its classic approachability among trad climbs—solid, direct, and free from excessive risk, yet requiring clear technique. Plan your trip with hydration and weather in mind; Eastern California’s sun can be relentless, but the altitude and shade provide relief.
High C stands as a perfect introduction to this rugged area’s trad offerings or as a steady challenge for those refining their crack climbing. Its balance of technical sequences and inviting protection rewards focus and steady hands. Whether prepping from the top anchors or leading ground-up, this climb gives you a contained adventure where the rock tests your grip and your composure amid a quiet and striking landscape.
Despite solid protection, focus on clip timing around the bolt-protected crux to minimize fall potential. The granite is generally sound, but always check placements carefully, especially toward the upper crack where cams need to fit snugly. The approach gully can be steep and loose—wear sturdy shoes and move cautiously.
Approach the East Wall via the upper gully and scout the top anchors before climbing.
Bring a full trad rack including cams up to 4 inches for reliable protection.
Start early to avoid the intense midday sun and take advantage of morning warmth.
Hydrate thoroughly and plan for variable temperatures as altitude and shade shift conditions.
One well-maintained bolt protects a thin, technical crux near the base. Gear placements up to 4 inches secure the widening hand crack above. Fixed bolted anchors at the top provide solid top-rope options or easy rappel setup.
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