"Hidden Crack offers a straightforward yet engaging two-pitch trad climb on Suicide Rock's Northeast Buttress. Its mix of technical crack work, moderate difficulty, and solid protection appeals to climbers ready to sharpen their crack climbing skills within an iconic California granite setting."
Hidden Crack is a compelling slice of classic California trad climbing steeped in the rugged character of Suicide Rock’s Northeast Buttress. This two-pitch route, stretching roughly 200 feet, invites climbers to engage with a vertical granite face where subtle features become both challenge and guide. You begin by tackling the Flake Out pitch, ascending past a prominent vertical corner that demands precise footwork and steady hands. After securing an initial belay at the Spooky Spike stance, the climb veers left on a carefully balanced traverse, setting up for a technical lieback of an inviting thin flake system hugging the wall’s exposed bulge. This section tests finger strength against a delicate edge while offering a chance to feel the rock’s texture as you shift upward. The final moves blend into Spooky Spike’s upper section, a striking finish capped by solid placements and a chance to savor expansive views of the surrounding granite slabs and chaparral-dotted hillsides.
This route holds a steady 5.8 rating known for feeling approachable yet engaging, particularly due to its fine technical moves on moderate holds. Double rack protection up to three inches ensures a secure ascent but expect to hunt for well-placed gear amid varied crack widths. The moderate star rating reflects a climb that rewards attentiveness over brute force, appealing to ambitious novices eyeing solid trad experience as well as seasoned climbers appreciating quality granite moves.
Access to Hidden Crack begins with a clear approach along the established trail to Suicide Rock. The path offers gentle elevation gain through sun-dappled pines and open granite fields, taking about 25 minutes from the main parking area. GPS coordinates place you comfortably at 33.77158 latitude and -116.69558 longitude, where the granite monolith rises sharply against the California sky. Be mindful of timing your climb for morning or late afternoon hours, when shadows soften heat and route conditions improve. Avoid midday sun that can turn holds abrasive and increase dehydration risk.
Preparation is key here: sturdy climbing shoes with a sticky rubber sole help on the slabby footwork sections, while a well-packed rack calibrated for variable crack sizes keeps protection within easy reach. Don’t forget ample water and sun protection; the exposed approach and upper pitches offer little shelter from direct sun, especially in warmer months. Descending Hidden Crack requires a multi-point rappel or careful downclimbing through granite breaks back to the base, so review your anchor setup and descent plan before you start.
Hidden Crack stands as a rewarding trad climb, blending tactile granite features with a measured challenge that suits a wide range of adventurous climbers. Its combination of technical moves, solid protection, and scenic surroundings make it a must-try for those drawn to the iconic climbing landscape of Suicide Rock. Whether aiming to sharpen crack skills or simply savor a classic California route, Hidden Crack delivers a clear, practical, and memorable climbing experience.
The traverse section requires controlled movement to avoid falls on exposed terrain, so ensure your gear placements are secure before shifting laterally. Granite can be sharp, so watch for skin abrasion, and double-check anchor setups before rappelling. The approach trail has some loose rock sections—use caution and appropriate footwear.
Start early or late in the day to avoid harsh midday sun on the exposed granite.
Hydrate well before the climb; the approach and route offer limited shade.
Check your gear for cam sizes up to 3 inches for best protection options.
Plan your descent carefully; rappel anchors are available but confirm before commitment.
Bring a double rack extending to three inches to handle the varying crack widths, with particular attention on the thin flakes and the traverse section. Sticky rubber climbing shoes are essential for confident foot placements on the granite slabs.
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