HomeClimbingHidden Crack

Hidden Crack

Donner Summit,California ,United States
corner crack
beginner trad
short pitch
granite
shared anchors
Grade: 5.9
Length: 40 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hidden Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Hidden Crack

5.9, Trad

Donner Summit

California ,United States

Overview

"Hidden Crack offers a tight 40-foot trad climb on a straightforward corner near Donner Summit. With gear placements up to 2 inches and solid chain anchors, it’s an approachable route that rewards good footwork and hands-on crack technique."

Hidden Crack

Hidden Crack offers a compact but rewarding 40-foot trad climb tucked into a corner of the Hidden Wall near Donner Summit. The route demands a sharp eye and careful footwork as you navigate a granite corner that currently shows signs of wear and could greatly improve with some focused cleaning. This climb shares its chain anchors with an adjacent bolted arête, offering climbers a direct comparison between traditional gear placements and sport climbing techniques on neighboring lines. Expect placements up to 2 inches, with solid pro opportunities despite the route's need for a spruce-up.

The approach is straightforward, situated just off the I-80 corridor near Lake Tahoe, making for easy access with a quick transition from trailhead to rock. The granite here is rugged, demanding attention with slick patches that reveal their texture when dry. The corner itself offers a tactile experience: textured feet find purchase on subtle edges, while hand jams settle into clean cracks, allowing climbers to feel the rock’s character as it pushes back in measured resistance.

Expect a route graded 5.9, though climbers should be prepared for a slightly stiff challenge, especially considering the need for cleaning that might soften an otherwise crisp move. The shared anchors mean descent is managed efficiently via a single rappel, but conditions can be variable, so bringing extra slings or cordelette for anchors is wise.

Preparation tips include sturdy but flexible shoes to manage delicate edging in the corner, and an assortment of cams and nuts up to 2 inches to cover all placements securely. Dry weather is best; moisture can dull friction and increase the challenge unexpectedly. Early morning climbs often benefit from shaded rock, while midday sun warms the face and enhances grip.

While the routes nearby hint at harder, more technical challenges, Hidden Crack stands as an accessible gateway to trad climbing in the region, inviting exploration and hands-on skills. For anyone visiting the I-80 corridor near Lake Tahoe seeking a no-fuss trad pitch with a touch of character, this route delivers practical climbing alongside a brush with the raw granite’s personality.

Climber Safety

The route requires proper gear placement up to 2 inches and shared chain anchors. The rock can feel slick when damp, so avoid climbing after rain or heavy dew. The corner’s narrowness demands precise footwork to prevent slips. Approach and descent are safe but always double-check anchor integrity.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length40 feet

Local Tips

Plan your climb for dry weather to maximize friction on the granite.

Wear climbing shoes with a firm but sensitive sole for edging in the corner.

Start early to take advantage of morning shade and cooler rock temperatures.

Carry extra cleaning tools if you want to improve the climb—currently it shows some dirt and lichen.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Hidden Crack sits at a comfortable yet engaging level with a crisp move or two that make the grade feel on point. The need for a thorough cleaning adds a slight challenge, making holds feel slightly greasy and footing less secure. Compared to other local 5.9s, this climb leans toward a straightforward finger crack without technical overhangs or bolts, favoring clean trad tactics.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with cams and nuts up to 2 inches. The route demands solid placements, with chain anchors shared with an adjacent bolted arête. Extra slings or cordelette recommended for anchor redundancy.

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Tags

corner crack
beginner trad
short pitch
granite
shared anchors