"Hey Buddy, Nice Cock on Mota Wall is a compelling three-pitch sport climb in El Potrero Chico featuring a steady buildup of technical challenges. From a sharp crux early on to a sustained and exposed 5.12a final pitch, this route calls for precise technique and trust in bolted protection."
El Potrero Chico's Mota Wall presents an adventure that challenges both stamina and technical skill with the route 'Hey Buddy, Nice Cock.' This three-pitch sport climb rises sharply against the northern Mexican skyline, offering a progression from bold 5.10b moves through thin sustained 5.11d sequences, culminating in a demanding 5.12a finale that demands precision and focus.
Starting on the first pitch, climbers face a compact challenge peppered with six bolts, where the middle section holds a well-defined crux that tests your movement with delicate balance and footwork. The rock here is textured, requiring sharp attention to hold orientation and body positioning. From there, the second pitch slips into a sustained 5.11d that leans on thinner holds and requires patience. It runs on technical sequences that may feel brittle at first but reward those who maintain rhythm and commitment.
The final pitch is the route’s signature feature—a long, exposed climb that offers full value for your efforts. This 5.12a pitch, fortified by twelve bolts, demands steady fingers on crimps and controlled side-pulling technique. The rock’s angles stretch your reach and force you into calculated rests, with exposure adding to the mental intensity. The pitch’s length and sustained nature give it the feel of a classic hard sport climb, where endurance and focus culminate in a satisfying send.
The approach leads you through the iconic El Potrero Chico sector, known for its rugged volcanic limestone and dramatic cliff faces. The area’s dry climate and stable rock make it ideal for climbing year-round, though early morning or late afternoon ascents help avoid the midday heat. The wall’s orientation provides sun exposure that shifts throughout the day, so planning your start time will affect both comfort and friction.
Protection across all pitches relies exclusively on bolts, offering solid security but requiring climbers to trust fixed gear on the hard sections. The nature of this route encourages climbers to bring a rope capable of comfortably belaying three pitches and gear optimized for dynamic movement.
Given the route’s technical difficulty and the exposed final pitch, proper hydration and a careful warm-up on nearby moderate routes are advisable. El Potrero Chico’s environment can be sharp and sun-drenched, so durable footwear and sun protection go hand in hand with climbing essentials.
Descending is straightforward, with established rappel anchors allowing quick and safe descent, but caution is recommended when managing ropes on the exposed upper sections. This route offers a complete package for those ready to push their limits—combining technical sport climbing with rewarding exposure and an immersive Mexican climbing experience.
While bolts provide reliable protection, the exposed nature of the final pitch requires committed climbing without much room for error. Be prepared for sun exposure and keep hydration in check. Approach and descent paths feature uneven terrain—use care with slippery rock sections after rain.
Start early to avoid intense midday heat and take advantage of morning shade.
Bring gear for three pitches; quickdraws of varied lengths help manage rope drag.
Hydrate well—dry conditions can easily dehydrate climbers during longer routes.
Check rappel anchors before descent; they’re solid but managing ropes on exposed ledges takes care.
The climb is fully bolted, requiring a sport rack focusing on quickdraws to cover three pitches. Expect 6 bolts on pitch one, an unbolted but technical second pitch, and 12 bolts on the crux final pitch—no traditional gear placements needed.
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