HomeClimbingHe's Got Marty Feldman Eyes

He's Got Marty Feldman Eyes

Three Rivers, California United States
face climb
slab
multi-pitch
granite
mixed protection
trad gear
sport bolts
medium cams
Length: 300 ft
Type: Trad | Sport
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
He's Got Marty Feldman Eyes
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"This two-pitch climb blends smooth sport bolts with trad gear opportunities on textured granite in Sequoia National Park. Starting with a technical face pitch and moving to an easier second, it offers both challenge and strategy against a backdrop of soaring pines and expansive views."

He's Got Marty Feldman Eyes

Rising steadily against the sheer granite faces of Chimney Rocks within Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park, "He's Got Marty Feldman Eyes" offers a balanced climbing experience that challenges both your technique and route-finding instincts. This 300-foot, two-pitch climb begins with a face and slab climb that gradually lightens in difficulty the higher you ascend, presenting an engaging progression from a demanding start to a less complex finish. The first pitch demands focus: six bolts anchor the route through a textured granite face, with a tight, well-protected crux early on that encourages precise footwork and steady hand placements. As you move upward, the bolt spacing grows more generous, inviting climbers to supplement protection with a selection of .5 to 2-inch cams, adding a thoughtful layer of trad gear strategy to the sport climbing feel. The granite itself offers a tactile canvas—smooth edges, subtle cracks, and slanted slabs that test your balance and composure while offering a tangible connection to the rock.

At the belay station, a pair of bolts secure your stance and provide a moment to absorb the surroundings: towering pines whisper in the breeze and the valley below stretches expansively under a wide California sky. The second pitch diverges from the straightforward ascent by veering right across a groove, where a couple of aging bolts pepper the rock face, but the real choice lies in gauging your comfort for moving beyond fixed protection to free climbing an easier 5.5 section. This top portion rewards you with quieter terrain and a chance to catch your breath before the descent.

Descending is a simple affair with a double-rope rappel back down the route, but strong attention to rope management and anchors is key, especially given the varied gear placements on the first pitch. The approach to Chimney Rocks is well-marked though rugged, threading through forested paths that hint at the remote nature of the area despite its national park setting. Early-season climbs reward with cooler temperatures and generally dry conditions, while warmer months demand early starts to avoid the afternoon sun baking the granite surfaces.

For those packing their gear, a half dozen draws paired with a modest collection of small to medium cams will suffice. Sturdiness in your rack ensures you can confidently supplement the fixed bolts where needed. Proper footwear with solid edging capability will enhance grip on the slabby sections, where every millimeter counts. Hydration is essential—there are no water sources along the approach or at the base.

Overall, "He's Got Marty Feldman Eyes" harmonizes the appeal of sport climbing accessibility with the strategic depth of traditional gear placements. It’s an inviting line for intermediate climbers ready to test their skills in an environment that offers both the quiet grandeur of the high Sierras and the tangible thrill of a well-balanced climb.

Climber Safety

Watch your gear placements carefully; the lower pitch bolts protect well on the crux, but the wider spacing above requires solid trad placements, especially on runout sections. Always double-check anchors before descending the rappel, as some bolts show age.

Route Details

TypeTrad | Sport
Pitches2
Length300 feet

Local Tips

Start early in the day to avoid hot granite surfaces and afternoon glare.

Hydrate well before the climb; no reliable water sources are nearby.

Bring a double rope setup for a safe, controlled two-rope rappel descent.

Check your cam placements carefully on the first pitch where bolts are spaced wider.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:Rated at 5.10a, the route’s first pitch demands technical footwork and precise clipping on sport bolts, with a crux that tests your movement efficiency. The grade feels true and approachable for experienced climbers, though less familiar climbers may find the loose bolt spacing above adds a mental challenge. The second pitch drops to a comfortable 5.5, offering a nice cooldown section after the intensity below.

Gear Requirements

Bring about six quickdraws to clip the fixed bolts; add a small rack of cams in sizes .5 to 2 inches to cover longer bolt stretches and enhance safety on the upper face sections.

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Tags

face climb
slab
multi-pitch
granite
mixed protection
trad gear
sport bolts
medium cams