"Hernia offers a clean, left-leaning crack perfect for new trad climbers seeking to hone jamming techniques in Squamish’s Smoke Bluffs. Easy but essential, this 30-foot single pitch blends approachable climbing with solid protection in a relaxed outdoor setting."
Hernia stands as a straightforward yet rewarding introduction to traditional climbing at Respiration Rock, situated in Squamish’s famous Smoke Bluffs area. This single-pitch route stretches approximately 30 feet along a broad, left-leaning crack that splits the rock just to the right of the more prominent Thrombosis climb. The crack’s width caters mostly to fists and hands, presenting an ideal opportunity for climbers new to jamming techniques to develop solid fundamentals on real rock. While the difficulty may feel light for well-seasoned climbers, this climb offers a clean, reliable line with plenty of room to practice secure gear placements and body positioning in a moderate setting.
The approach delivers a calm transition from the bustling hub of Smoke Bluffs parking to an open granite outcrop where Respiration Rock stands quietly among other formations. Forest scents mix with fresh mountain air, and the rustle of nearby trees provides a gentle soundtrack as you gear up. On the climb itself, the steady left-leaning crack invites you to engage a rhythm, locking in the jams and widening hand stacks, each move responding to the rock’s character. The rock is sound and offers a reassuring texture beneath your fingers, demanding neither explosive power nor technical contortions, but steady, confident technique.
Protection is straightforward; the route accepts a range of cams, including a #4 and #2 as essential anchors for the wider sections. Several solid 3/8" bolts are fixed at the top, securing the anchor and easing the descent. Climbers are advised to clean the anchor after their ascent to maintain the area’s pristine condition, then move to the large nearby tree for a safe rappel. This practice helps reduce gear clutter on the line and keeps the rock face clean for others.
Planning your day around this climb, early morning or late afternoon offer cooler temperatures and less crowded trails. The granite wall faces east-southeast, catching ample morning light while providing afternoon shade. Timing is key, especially during warmer months when the sun’s rays can heat the rock. Good hiking shoes will help with the short but uneven approach, and climbers should carry water and a small first aid kit to manage minor scrapes common in this granite environment.
Whether you’re just stepping onto traditional gear for the first time or seeking a relaxed climb to build confidence in finger jams, Hernia strikes a balance between solid technique practice and a serene setting that Squamish climbers appreciate. It’s a practical entry point that encourages steady progress without overwhelming complexity, setting the stage for tougher climbs in the Smoke Bluffs network.
Watch your foot placements on the approach trail, as loose gravel and roots can cause slips. On the climb, keep gear well-placed to avoid unintentional falls. The descent anchors are secure but require cleaning your own hardware, so be meticulous with anchor management.
Aim for morning or late afternoon climbs to avoid direct sun on the face.
Bring a mix of cam sizes, focusing on #2 and #4 for secure placements.
Clean your anchor and rappel from the big tree to minimize hardware left behind.
Use approach shoes for the short trek to Respiration Rock; the trail is uneven but clear.
A few cams work well here, with #4 and #2 sized cams especially useful for the wider sections. The anchor is bolted at the top with 3/8" bolts, so bring gear for placements along the crack but plan to clean your anchor and rappel from the nearby large tree after climbing.
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