Herman is a brief but solid trad climb tucked within the rugged charm of Call It A Day at The Smoke Bluffs, Squamish. Though it flies under the radar—absent from the 2012 Squamish Select guidebook—this 80-foot line quietly calls to climbers looking for straightforward crack climbing without the crowds. The route begins on a slab just right of the classic Pee Wee climb, immediately presenting climbers with a clean crack that invites steady moves upward. The crack traces a defined path, twisting slightly as it leads to a comfortable ledge, offering a moment to shake out before a short finish that reunites with Pee Wee’s final moves. The granite here is solid, textured with enough friction to encourage confident foot placements and hand jams, making each move feel purposeful and secure.

Surrounding the climb, the Smoke Bluffs reveal their familiar forested edges, with shafts of light filtering through tall cedars and Douglas firs, casting shifting shadows on the rock’s surface. The ambient sounds—rustling leaves, distant birdcalls, and occasional chatter from nearby climbers—frame the experience, keeping it lively yet connected to the wild.

Planning for Herman requires minimal gear but attention to traditional protection. The crack accepts cams and nuts comparable to those used on Pee Wee, though specific placements can feel a bit sparse higher up, demanding careful gear selection and some willingness to run it out. Given its short length and modest difficulty rating of 5.6, Herman is ideal for beginners stepping into crack climbing or for experienced climbers aiming for a relaxed, low-stress pitch in a legendary climbing setting.

Access to the base comes via well-worn trails weaving through dense forest. From the main parking area near Smoke Bluffs Park, expect a brief approach of about 10 minutes, with rocky footing that benefits from sturdy shoes and attentive footwork. Early morning or late afternoon sessions are best to avoid midday heat, as the wall receives uneven shade depending on the season. Weather here can shift quickly, so layers and hydration remain essential.

While Herman does not push technical limits, the climb’s charm lies in its accessibility and the subtle challenge of gear placements and crack negotiation. It pairs well with neighboring routes for a half-day of crack climbing practice or as a warm-up before tackling more demanding climbs in the area. The descent is a straightforward walk-off through the forest, allowing climbers to reflect on the climb and soak in the surrounding natural tranquility as they return to the trailhead.

This quiet corner of The Smoke Bluffs rewards those who seek a manageable trad climb with solid granite and easy access, wrapped in the familiar wilderness atmosphere that defines Squamish climbing. Prepare well, move deliberately, and enjoy the steady rhythm of hands gripping rock, feet finding purchase, and the steady upward pull that marks this fulfilling line known simply as Herman.