HomeClimbingHere Comes The Rain

Here Comes The Rain: A Compact Trad Challenge in Kern Canyon

Kernville, California United States
trad
finger crack
single pitch
needle bushes
sunny approach
kern canyon
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Here Comes The Rain
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Here Comes The Rain is a sharp, 60-foot trad climb in Kern Canyon that delivers a satisfying test of finger cracks and body control. Perfect for climbers seeking a quick yet technical pitch with solid protection and a rugged, sunlit approach."

Here Comes The Rain: A Compact Trad Challenge in Kern Canyon

Here Comes The Rain cuts through the rugged landscape of Kern Canyon’s Lower Kern River area with straightforward grit and a sharp edge. This tight, 60-foot trad route offers a brisk but memorable climb steeped in the raw Sierra foothills' character. The climb’s setting near The Needles places it amid rocky outcrops that test your technical skills without demanding a full-day commitment, making it ideal for climbers who crave punchy challenges paired with natural, rugged terrain.

The route opens with a clean crack that invites careful hand jams and precise footwork. The crux arrives just after the first strong move: a stretch right below a prominent jug that feels almost like a brief breath before the push upward. It’s a move that tests your finger strength and body tension, requiring focus but rewarding with secure holds immediately beyond. This section, just shy of the middle of the pitch, sets the tone for a straightforward but thoughtful ascent.

Protection is simple but requires attentiveness. Bring cams up to 2 inches to cover the protections—smaller sizes fit perfectly into the crack’s natural breaks. The rock quality here is solid, but the vegetation doesn’t hold back—needle bushes cling closely along the scramble path to the left, warranting caution when approaching the top-rope anchor or descending. Their sharp twigs have a stubborn sting, so layering your clothing and wearing durable gloves while setting up is wise.

Approaching the route is a short, gritty trail through sunbaked brush typical of the Southern Sierra’s lower elevations. The ascent from the trailhead is under 15 minutes, with uneven footing and a modest incline that steadily reveals views of the canyon’s sculpted stone walls. Timing your climb in the morning hours helps avoid the afternoon heat, as direct sun can amplify the temperature quickly on the exposed face.

Local climbers appreciate Here Comes The Rain for its mix of straightforward protection and the varied moves compressed into a single pitch. It’s a rewarding test for those upgrading from simpler cracks or traditional top-ropes, while the accessible length keeps the day flexible for multiple routes. Bring enough water, wear sturdy shoes with good edging, and be ready for a dry, slightly scruffy approach that adds to the route’s authentic Kern River experience.

Descent is simple—you can downclimb carefully or scramble back to the left side, giving a safe and quick return path to the trailhead without complex rope work. This single-pitch climb embodies a slice of southern California’s rugged allure, where nature holds a sharp but straightforward invitation to push your trad skills under an open sky.

Climber Safety

Watch for the thick needle bushes that grow densely near the top-rope anchor and scramble. They can easily scratch skin and snag gear, so protective clothing and cautious movement are essential. The rock is solid, but the approach involves uneven footing through dry brush and loose rock—take care especially in hot conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Approach the route in the morning to avoid the afternoon heat on the exposed face.

Wear long sleeves and gloves to protect against the sharp needle bushes on the scramble.

Use cams sized 2 inches and below for optimal protection in the main crack.

Descent is straightforward by scrambling left from the anchor—no rappel needed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 PG13, this route offers a moderate challenge with a short crux move beneath a jug, requiring controlled finger strength and smooth movement. The grade feels accurate, neither soft nor overly stiff, making it an accessible step up for trad climbers familiar with crack climbing. Compared to other local routes in Kern Canyon, it’s a concise but engaging climb with solid protection.

Gear Requirements

Bring cams up to 2 inches to protect the crack, focusing on smaller sizes for reliable placements. The rock holds well, but expect exposure to close-growing needle bushes near the anchor and scramble.

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Tags

trad
finger crack
single pitch
needle bushes
sunny approach
kern canyon