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Herba Mala Extension: A Fiery Challenge in San Isidro Canyon

San Isidro, Nuevo Leon Mexico
orange rock
technical
sport climbing
single pitch
exposed
dry climate
long slings
rappel
Length: 165 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Herba Mala Extension
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Herba Mala Extension offers climbers a fiery single-pitch challenge on the distinctive orange walls of San Isidro Canyon. This 5.12a sport route combines technical sequences with a striking setting, perfect for those seeking precision and exposure in northern Mexico."

Herba Mala Extension: A Fiery Challenge in San Isidro Canyon

Herba Mala Extension stands as a fiery offshoot of the renowned Contrabando y Traicion route in the stark limestone faces of San Isidro Canyon, Nuevo Leon. This single-pitch contest of athletic finesse stretches 165 feet along a radiant wall of orange-hued rock, often described by climbers as "cooked" in its intensity and texture—a quality many regard as unique, offering secure friction with minimal maintenance required after bolting. The route demands technical confidence at 5.12a, with sharp sequences that test finger strength and body positioning, making it a must-climb for sport climbers eyeing a serious challenge in northern Mexico.

Approaching the ascent, you’ll find a landscape carved by ancient riverbeds, where the air hums with a dry warmth and the cliffs seem to burn under the midday sun. Expect to back-clean the neighboring Contrabando y Traicion to access Herba Mala Extension, a necessary step to keep long slings organized and ropes clear for lowering. The anchor system, equipped with bolts and permadraws, ensures a secure top-out, allowing climbers to rappel back down to Contrabando’s anchor point with a 70-meter rope.

The sharp contrast between the desert scrub at the canyon base and the polished, sunlit wall draws climbers both for its intense exposure and the feeling of isolation atop this striking rock face. While it doesn't start at ground level, the effort to reach the clip-in bolts is rewarded with a pitch that flows between powerful moves, over pockets and edges sculpted by the elements. In the heat of the day, the rock's warm tones pulse beneath your fingertips, almost daring you to push past fatigue and seize the climb.

Preparation here is crucial. The dry climate and exposed position call for ample hydration and sun protection. Lightweight, grippy climbing shoes will help you manage the technical sequences, while a trusty 70-meter rope allows for a smooth lowering process. Timing the climb for cooler morning hours can improve grip and comfort, as afternoon sun intensifies the heat hammered out by the canyon walls.

Beyond the climb itself, San Isidro Canyon offers a rugged playground of natural beauty with rocky ridges stretching into the horizon. The area's remoteness means climbers should come equipped and mentally prepared for minimal support services. Locals appreciate the preservation of this route’s raw character, maintained through responsible climbing and respect for the environment.

Whether you’re approaching Herba Mala Extension to test your redpoint limits or to enjoy a compelling single-pitch sport route, this extension adds a powerful edge to your Nuevo Leon climbing itinerary—a fiery, technical escape where the rock demands your full focus and rewards it with crisp movement and memorable exposure.

Climber Safety

The route sits above ground level; pay close attention to managing rope drag with long slings while back-cleaning. The anchor requires a full 70-meter rope for lowering—dropping shorter ropes here risks a dangerous pendulum or ground fall. The sun-exposed wall can reach harsh temperatures, so watch for dehydration and keep your skin protected.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length165 feet

Local Tips

Back-clean Contrabando y Traicion before climbing to manage your gear effectively.

Bring at least a 70-meter rope for a safe and smooth rappel.

Aim to climb during morning hours to avoid the intense afternoon heat on the wall.

Hydrate thoroughly before and after climbing given the dry canyon conditions.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.12a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.12a grade on Herba Mala Extension reflects a technical edge with sustained sequences that reward precise footwork and finger strength. The rating feels true to grade, with no softening due to the intense friction of the rock. Climbers familiar with nearby Contrabando will find the extension adds another level of challenge but within a similarly technical framework.

Gear Requirements

Single-pitch sport line backed by Contrabando y Traicion. Use long slings to keep draws clear. Bolts guide the way with a permadraw-protected anchor. A 70-meter rope is needed for the rappel back to Contrabando’s anchor.

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Tags

orange rock
technical
sport climbing
single pitch
exposed
dry climate
long slings
rappel