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Heartbreaker: A Classic Trad Climb on Sonora Pass

Sonora, California USA
hand crack
offwidth
helmet recommended
single pitch
trad gear
granite
Sierra Nevada
Length: 140 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Heartbreaker
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Heartbreaker offers a focused 140-foot trad pitch on Sonora Pass, featuring hand-sized cracks and a challenging offwidth. Perfect for trad climbers craving solid gear placements amidst rugged Sierra granite."

Heartbreaker: A Classic Trad Climb on Sonora Pass

Heartbreaker offers an accessible yet engaging introduction to traditional climbing along California’s Sonora Pass Highway, delivering a focused 140-foot pitch that rewards steady movement and thoughtful protection. The route initiates on a mix of broken face and inviting ledges, leading you steadily toward a prominent, right-facing dihedral framed by a hand-sized crack. This section demands a confident but relaxed approach to gear placements — keeping an eye for solid pro in the crack while enjoying the rhythm of the climb. Above, a short but challenging chimney/offwidth section awaits; its offwidth nature tests your technique and gear choices. For those preferring alternative lines, a face climb veers right, skirting the chimney while still providing protection options.

The anchors are well-maintained, with a three-bolt intermediate anchor allowing the route to be climbed in either one or two pitches, depending on your team’s preference. Despite the straightforward rating of 5.9, climbers should remain alert to the route's tendency for loose rockfall, especially around the belay zones. Helmets are essential here, as small rocks can dislodge and come down unexpectedly. The surrounding landscape is raw and rugged — sturdy granite faces rising sharply against the clear Sierra sky. Ambient sounds of the nearby forest and occasional stir of mountain breeze create a grounded, focused atmosphere.

Approach to Heartbreaker is manageable, with a well-marked access from the Sonora Pass Highway (Highway 108), placing the route within a broader expanse of climbing opportunities in the Big Face sector of the LTA area. The climb demands solid traditional rack preparation, gearing up to a #4 Camalot to protect the wider sections effectively. This route suits climbers transitioning from easier moderate routes toward more technical offwidth skills and gear placements. With the moderate 5.9 rating and single-pitch length, Heartbreaker is an ideal day project for those who value quality cracks and solid anchors without committing to multi-pitch complexity.

Plan your ascent with a focus on timing to avoid midday sun on the face, and consider early starts to minimize heat and maximize comfort. The area's quiet remoteness rewards climbers with privacy and spacious granite landscapes where grounded adventure and thoughtful climbing intersect. For anyone itching to test their trad rack and offwidth confidence amidst the raw Californian Sierra, Heartbreaker delivers practical challenge with enough nuance to keep the focus sharp and the spirit adventurous.

Climber Safety

Loose rock is common on the upper sections and belay ledges—wear helmets and maintain a vigilant eye for dislodged debris. The offwidth chimney requires careful gear placements to avoid runouts and ensure safety.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length140 feet

Local Tips

Wear a helmet due to frequent small rockfall onto the belayer.

Consider climbing early to avoid intense midday sun on the granite face.

Save larger cams (#3 and #4) for offwidth placements near the top chimney.

Approach from Sonora Pass Highway; the trail is clear but involves some elevation gain and loose scree near the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.9, Heartbreaker feels solid with protection opportunities for every move. The crux lies in navigating the offwidth chimney, which pushes the grade’s difficulty slightly beyond the typical 5.9 due to technical gear placements and body positioning. The rating feels fair but demands respect from those new to offwidth climbing.

Gear Requirements

Requires a full rack up to a #4 Camalot, especially important for protecting the offwidth chimney near the top. An intermediate 3-bolt anchor allows for a two-pitch option, while the top gear anchor is solid for belay and rappels.

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Tags

hand crack
offwidth
helmet recommended
single pitch
trad gear
granite
Sierra Nevada