Heart of Choss offers a refreshing departure from its namesake, delivering a clean, focused trad climb in the stark wilderness of Northeast California’s Moonlight Crags. This single-pitch 5.8 route invites climbers to engage with its smooth, splitter crack that demands precise jams and confident footwork. From the anchors, the climb begins with a deliberate traverse rightward, steering toward a small pod where a finger-sized cam finds its place, before committing leftward beneath a distinctive roof feature. Here, the splitter crack opens like a challenge, its clean lines and reliable jams encouraging steady movement upward. The rock’s texture is surprisingly solid, with well-placed face holds that complement the crack climbing, making each move intuitive yet engaging.

Set against a backdrop of rugged granite, Heart of Choss stands apart from the rough-and-tumble reputation of nearby routes. This climb’s reliability makes it an excellent introduction to the area while offering experienced climbers a polished pitch that rewards attention to pro placement and technique. Protection calls for a range of finger-sized cams, from 0.75 to 3 inches, with an emphasis on flexibility—slings are crucial for extending placements under the roof, where angles force extended reaches and careful gear management.

Approach to the Moonlight Crags is straightforward but if you’re venturing here for the first time, anticipate variable terrain with a short, steep hike from parking that weaves through scattered pines and quartz-strewn ground. Timing your climb for morning to mid-afternoon hours often yields the best conditions, as the northeast-facing wall escapes the intense afternoon sun. Bringing layers is wise, as temperatures can drop unexpectedly in these elevations.

Though the route lacks fixed anchors, the attentive climber can set solid gear and top out confidently before descending safely via a walk-off or a short rappel. The limited traffic here preserves a quiet, focused atmosphere, allowing you to feel the rock’s personality as it challenges without excess choss or uncertainty. For trad climbers seeking a reliable, technically interesting pitch with a touch of Sierra solitude, Heart of Choss presents a balanced adventure that rewards preparation and respect for the rock.