"A raw and demanding offwidth route in Yosemite’s Lower Merced River Canyon. Health Insurance challenges trad climbers with jagged rock, tricky gear placements, and a mental test amid lichen-covered corners. Prepare for a bold, gritty ascent that rewards focused technical climbing."
Health Insurance stands as a bold challenge in the Lower Merced River Canyon, captivating trad climbers with its raw, unrefined character. Located just to the right of Pinky Paralysis, this single-pitch route stretches 140 feet through a jagged right-facing corner that demands commitment and a careful eye. The rock here is rugged and often lichen-covered, warning climbers to pick their holds and placements with care. From the ground, you face an initial scramble over large blocks into a deceptively straightforward offwidth. This section hides a sneaky lieback crack tucked inside the corner that rewards those who trust their hand jams with subtle technique.
The climb quickly shifts in tone as you move upward—an imposing rotten bulge emerges, marked by subpar protection opportunities and a loose block that seems to watch your every move, adding a mental layer to the physical effort. Beyond this hazard, the route opens into enjoyable fist jams and sustained offwidth climbing that flows into a ledge system, offering a brief rest and chance to recalibrate your gear and focus.
The final pitch escalates steeply with twin cracks demanding solid doublecrack skills and body tension as you push toward a commanding large block topping out the route. Anchoring at a lone tree with rappel slings, Health Insurance calls for extra webbing on your rack to secure this natural anchor confidently. While two ropes or an 80-meter rappel are ideal for a clean descent, climbers who bring a single 70-meter will find themselves downclimbing the bottom 15 feet, a tight space that requires calm and precision.
This climb’s gritty texture and offwidth demands make it a niche experience: Liver-warmth for those who thrive in technical jamming and aren’t discouraged by loose rock or sparse protection. The Lower Merced River Canyon doesn’t present a polished sport climb here but offers instead an honest trad test in one of Yosemite’s iconic climbing sectors. It’s an opportunity to experience a piece of the valley’s wild character, surrounded by the broader wilderness of Yosemite National Park.
Bring gear scaling up to 4.5 inches, supplemented with multiple 3–4-inch pieces to navigate tricky placements. The approach is manageable but requires vigilance—you’ll be threading through forested paths leading down to the river corridor, where the echo of rushing water accompanies your preparation and descent. Climbing Health Insurance rewards those who appreciate routes where nature’s unpredictability plays a starring role, blending technical challenge with the unmistakable feeling of standing on Yosemite’s less-traveled edges.
The route has loose rock, particularly a large block in the bulge section which should be handled with caution. Protection is limited in places, so secure gear carefully and keep clear of anything that feels unsettled. The anchor tree requires inspection and likely webbing replacement for safe descent.
Expect slippery lichen on many holds—test placements before trusting them fully.
Bring extra webbing for the anchor; slings can be worn or inadequate.
Two ropes or an 80-meter rappel setup makes descent smoother; otherwise be prepared to downclimb the first 15 feet.
Plan to approach via established trails from Yosemite Valley, allowing 30-40 minutes to the base.
Gear up with protection that extends up to 4.5 inches. Bring multiple 3 and 4-inch pieces for the hardest placements and tricky offwidth sections. Extra webbing is recommended to reinforce the natural anchor tree at the top for a safe rappel.
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