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Headbangers in Leather

Squamish, Canada
finger jams
face crux
shallow chimney
pumpy
single pitch
trad
loose rock caution
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Headbangers in Leather
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Headbangers in Leather demands precise technique through steep jams, face cruxes, and a tricky chimney section. This single pitch trad climb near Squamish offers a compact but intense test of skill on solid granite with thoughtful protection placements."

Headbangers in Leather

Headbangers in Leather is a bold, technical single-pitch trad route that challenges climbers right from the onset. Starting with a 5.10 exit from a protective alcove, it quickly escalates into a sequence of steep jams and carefully placed locks, demanding steady technique and composure. The climb's character pivots on a powerful face crux, where balance and precision meet raw effort. Beyond that, the route squeezes into a shallow chimney. Here, the rock’s character shifts — some sections edge toward the loose side, requiring climbers to remain vigilant about pro placements and body positioning. The final moves before the chains test strength and route reading; rest spots appear intermittently, but the steep angle of the wall guarantees your forearms will plead for relief. Await a pump-fighting encounter that rewards persistence and smart pacing.

Located within the broader expanse of Top Shelf, just off Mamquam Forest Service Road near Squamish, this climb sits amid a rugged, forested landscape where the air carries the freshness of towering pines and the whisper of mountain breezes. The approach involves a manageable trek through well-marked trails, passing through thick greenery, before arriving at the climb’s base. This setting is as practical as it is inspiring—a slice of wilderness that invites you to test your limits without excessive bushwhacking or complex navigation.

Protection is straightforward but demands attentiveness: a single set of blue aliens up to size #2, backed by double sets from green aliens through #0.75 cover the critical placements. The top anchors feature fixed biners, assuring a secure finish. However, some loose rock near chimney sections advises caution while placing gear, preserving both your safety and the rock’s integrity.

Squamish’s variable weather means timing your ascent is crucial. Morning shade eases the heat on the climber’s arms, while afternoon sun warms the rock, bringing mixed conditions depending on season. Spring through early fall offers the most consistent dry weather, making these months ideal for a confident push up Headbangers in Leather.

Many climbers praise the route’s blend of technical demands and moderate length—90 feet carrying enough variety to sharpen your trad skills without committing to an exhausting multi-pitch day. This climb favors those comfortable with finger jams and delicate face moves, and who bring thoughtful gear management to handle the chimney’s trickier pro spots. The blend of physicality and mental focus here offers a compelling introduction to serious trad climbing in Squamish’s renowned granite.

After topping out, descent is uncomplicated with a single rappel down the bolted anchors. Careful rigging is advised to avoid rope drag on the exposed sections nearby. With solid footwear recommended for both the approach and scrambling around the base, and plenty of hydration for warm days, Headbangers in Leather is a route that melds adventure with accessible challenges — an ideal climb for those ready to push their limits on classic Squamish granite.

Climber Safety

Loose rock in the chimney section requires careful pro placement and mindful footwork. Avoid trusting crumbly holds and double-check gear before committing to moves above anchors.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Watch your gear placements in the chimney—rock can be loose.

Start early to take advantage of morning shade on the climb.

Bring gloves or tape for finger jams to protect your hands.

Rappel carefully using fixed biners to avoid rope drag.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.11d
Quality
Consensus:The grade sits at a solid 5.11d, reflecting sustained technical jams and a demanding face crux that elevates the difficulty. While the pitch is relatively short, the steepness and cruxy moves offer a stiff challenge that feels deserving of its rating. Compared to other Squamish classics, Headbangers in Leather demands precise technique with little room for error, making it slightly more intense than standard 5.11 trad routes in the area.

Gear Requirements

Carry a single set of blue aliens to #2, with double sets from green alien to #0.75 for secure placements. Fixed biners top out the route.

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Tags

finger jams
face crux
shallow chimney
pumpy
single pitch
trad
loose rock caution