"A sharp, single-pitch trad climb at Untch Rock that tests your gear skills on intermittent cracks and sparse protection. Ideal for climbers ready to build confidence in a focused, no-frills mountain setting."
He Said It Was O.K. stands as a concise but focused trad climb carved into the rugged stone of Untch Rock, sitting within the quieter corners of the San Bernardino Mountains. The route delivers a raw encounter with the rock’s intermittent seams and thin cracks, requiring careful footwork and steady hands. Though it measures only 30 feet, the climb demands respect — the protection is sparse and gear placements call for precision, especially with smaller nuts and cams around the 1-inch range. The lead-up to the line warns of run-out sections where you’ll want to have confidence in your hold-finding and commitment.
The approach to this route takes you through the Green Valley Lake vicinity, only a short drive from Running Springs, offering a mountain setting that is both rugged and approachable. Untch Rock’s granite face absorbs the midday sun, and the climb’s southwestern aspect means late mornings and early afternoons deliver ideal climbing conditions before the heat peaks. The air holds a crispness that hints at the forest just beyond, where pines stand tall, their soft needles rustling in the breeze.
For those eyeing this climb, the 5.8 PG13 rating suggests a step beyond straightforward beginner cracks — it’s a line where the risk of longer falls and tricky protection keeps adrenaline high. The bolted anchor shared with the nearby route Slipping Away provides a secure endpoint, but getting there involves reading the rock with care and staying calm over less frequented holds.
This route is perfect for trad climbers ready to sharpen their crack climbing skills under a practical setting that isn’t overwhelming in length but challenges composure and gear judgment. Bringing a well-rounded rack focused on smaller gear will pay off here, along with shoes that offer high sensitivity for those subtle foot jams. Hydration and timing your climb to avoid peak sun hours can make the experience more enjoyable, especially during summer months.
While the climb doesn’t stretch far vertically, the isolated nature of Untch Rock’s Green Valley Lake area adds a quiet sense of adventure. The sound of wind brushing through the trees and the feel of gritty stone under fingertips remind you that sometimes the most compact climbs hold their own stories. Your descent involves downclimbing or a short rappel from the bolted anchors—both straightforward but requiring attention to loose rock near the top.
Whether you’re aiming to build confidence on small gear placements or simply want a no-fuss introduction to the San Bernardino Mountains’ quieter trad options, He Said It Was O.K. offers a direct, honest climb with clear demands and a rewarding sense of self-reliance. Approach prepared, stay attentive to protection bets, and soak in a slice of mountain climbing that throws both challenge and satisfaction into a tight package.
Protection is limited and sometimes tricky on this route. Be prepared for runout sections where falls could be longer. The rock is solid but watch for loose flakes near the upper portions. Ensure your anchor is clipped carefully to avoid rope drag during descent.
Bring a rack heavy on smaller nuts and cams around 1 inch for optimal gear placements.
Avoid climbing during the hottest afternoon hours as the southwest-facing wall heats up quickly.
Wear sensitive shoes to handle thin seams and subtle foot jams.
Prepare for a short rappel from the bolted anchor or a careful downclimb.
Gear placements require smaller nuts and cams up to 1 inch, with an emphasis on precise, solid gear due to intermittent cracks. The route ends on a bolted anchor shared with Slipping Away, facilitating a secure rappel.
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