"Haywire is a rewarding single-pitch 5.9 trad climb that combines sustained stemming and an overhang finish. This route at Lincoln Creek Cliff offers both solid movement and the chance to sharpen your gear skills amid a stunning alpine setting."
Haywire stands out as a captivating single-pitch trad route at Lincoln Creek Cliff, offering climbers an engaging blend of technical movement and rewarding exposure. The climb begins with a straightforward slab and dihedral, inviting steady footwork and precise hand placements. As you ascend, the terrain shifts into more dynamic stemming moves, particularly as you approach and navigate the prominent overhang near the top. Here, the rock leans in, daring your balance and body tension to maintain control against its resistance.
This 100-foot route rewards persistence with a spacious ledge that provides a natural resting point before the final moves lead to a secure two-bolt anchor with solid steel chains. The rock quality throughout demands careful gear placement, especially in cracks up to 3 inches in size, so carrying a comprehensive standard rack is essential. The rating sits comfortably at 5.9, presenting an accessible yet challenging pitch for intermediate climbers who want to refine their trad skills on real rock.
Lincoln Creek Cliff itself is perched above the wild sweep of Lincoln Creek, framed by the rugged backdrop of Independence Pass. The area’s alpine air brings crisp coolness, cutting through the warmth of the sun on the mostly east-facing wall. Morning climbs allow you to take advantage of the shade before the sun climbs higher. The approach follows well-marked trails through open forest and boulder-strewn clearings, easing your way from the parking zone to base within a half hour.
The setting offers more than just a climb; it engages your senses with the crisp sound of creek water rushing nearby, the scent of pine mingling with fresh mountain air, and the tactile feedback of solid Colorado granite beneath your fingers. Preparation is straightforward but important: sturdy climbing shoes, a well-stocked trad rack to handle crack sizes up to 3 inches, and plenty of water to stay hydrated in this moderately exposed environment.
Haywire invites climbers to experience a route that balances technical demand and natural rhythm. It’s a perfect choice for those ready to push into 5.9 trad terrain with a single-pitch adventure that feels both accessible and memorable. Whether you’re looking to test your gear placements or enjoy focused movement through an overhung finish, this climb at Lincoln Creek Cliff provides a solid introduction that leaves you eager for more routes in the area.
Watch for tricky placements in the crack systems under the overhang—ensure your gear is secure before committing to the moves. The rock near the anchor is stable but always double-check your anchor before lowering or rappelling. Seasonal conditions may affect approach trail footing.
Start early to climb in the shade before midday sun warms the rock.
Bring a full standard rack including cams up to 3 inches to protect tricky sections.
Be prepared for stemming moves beneath the overhang, requiring body tension and precise footwork.
The approach trail is moderate and well-marked but allow 30-40 minutes to reach the base.
Standard trad rack up to 3 inches is recommended to handle placements through the varied cracks and stemming sections. A two-bolt anchor with chains awaits at the top for solid protection and rappelling.
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