"Hawks Retreat is a focused, technical trad climb along Hone Dome’s East Virgin Islands in Joshua Tree. Starting with bouldery moves, it culminates in a steep, exposed finger crack offering a satisfying challenge for intermediate climbers."
Hawks Retreat offers a focused trad climbing experience within the rugged terrain of Joshua Tree National Park, occupying a distinct spot along Hone Dome’s East Virgin Islands corridor. From the base, the route immediately draws your attention—a left-leaning crack carving its path up the far left edge of the face, daring climbers to commit. Getting started involves a powerful, bouldery high step that sets the tone for the climb ahead. The initial stretch carries you over low-angle face climbing rated around 5.7, running parallel to a sturdy 4.5-inch crack that twists gently to the right and wraps you around a large abandoned nest, an eerie marker suspended on the cliff. This section demands steady footwork and careful balance, rewarding you with clear handholds and moderate exposure.
The final 25 feet test your mettle on the route’s crux: a steep, sustained hand and finger crack that demands technical precision and grip strength. Here, the climb intensifies—not just in difficulty but in exposure—exposing you fully to the open air and the vast desert below. Protection is mostly straightforward, relying on gear placements up to 2 inches in diameter, though a larger piece near the start offers optional additional security. The rock’s texture is rough but sound, a reliable surface that invites confident jamming and face moves alike.
Joshua Tree’s dry heat and arid winds shape the climbing experience here. Early morning ascents offer the best chance to avoid the midday sun, which can radiate harshly off the rock and sap energy. The approach itself is a moderate hike along geological pathways of Hone Dome’s complex formations—expect scrubby desert vegetation beneath an expansive sky, punctuated by occasional bird calls. Total length clocks at about 70 feet, a single pitch that can be navigated by seasoned trad climbers with intermediate to advanced leading skills.
This climb’s relatively low star rating signals an honest challenge that doesn’t overstretch but demands respect for its technical crux. The route blends accessible climbing with a memorable, hands-on finishing section and holds appeal for climbers seeking a solid single-pitch outing amid Joshua Tree’s iconic landscape. Scout your rack carefully, set a measured pace, and let the crack and face features guide you upwards in steady rhythm.
The climb features significant exposure especially near the crux, so precise gear placements and a steady pace are essential. Watch for loose rock around the nest area and be aware that the bouldery start may challenge your footwork under stress.
Start early to beat the desert heat and avoid sun exposure on the steep crux.
Approach via Geology Tour Road and follow established paths to hone dome base.
Prepare for a bouldery high step to launch onto the route—wrist and finger warmups are recommended.
Bring a rack focused on small to medium cams; larger pieces are optional but useful.
Gear up with protection sized up to 2 inches for reliable placements throughout. Consider bringing a larger piece for the initial moves to add security before the crux section, which relies on solid hand and finger jams.
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