HomeClimbingHawkman's Escape

Hawkman's Escape: A Rugged Trad Climb to Lower Brother’s Summit

Yosemite Valley, California United States
chimney
crack climbing
multi-pitch
Yosemite trad
loose rock
route finding
manzanita
Length: 900 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
8
Location
Hawkman's Escape
Aspect
South Facing

Hawkman's Escape

Trad

Yosemite Valley, California United States

Overview

"Hawkman's Escape is a gritty eight-pitch trad climb that ascends Lower Brother’s rugged granite face in Yosemite. With challenging chimneys, variable rock quality, and demanding route-finding, it promises an authentic Yosemite adventure for experienced climbers."

Hawkman's Escape: A Rugged Trad Climb to Lower Brother’s Summit

Hawkman's Escape is a demanding eight-pitch trad climb that traces a challenging route up the Lower Brother in Yosemite National Park. From the outset, the climb demands patience and skill: a long approach sets the tone, winding through dense forest and rough terrain before you reach Michael's Ledges, the starting point. The air here is crisp, often carrying the scent of pine and the faint chill of occasional lichen flurries that dust your skin like a light snowfall. This is a climb that tests more than just strength — it challenges your ability to read the rock and the route itself.

The climbing style is pure Yosemite character — a mix of cracked faces, chimneys, and awkward moves on variable rock quality that can catch you off guard. The first pitch opens with a low-angle gully that eases you into the rhythm but warns of the physical demands ahead. From here, the route picks up intensity with a variety of crack systems and chimney sections that require precise crack climbing skills and confident footwork. Notably, pitches four and five ascend large chimneys infamous for loose rock, demanding cautious movement and careful protection placements.

Protection gear for Hawkman's Escape is specialized but straightforward. Aliens and small to medium brass offset nuts work best on narrow cracks, while fist-sized cams provide coverage on larger placements. Expect to use numerous slings to manage rope drag and comfortably protect awkward corners. Helmets are essential due to loose rock hazards, and bringing a headlamp is recommended for early starts or unexpected delays.

The route rewards climbers with arresting views as you gain height, framed by towering granite walls and vast stretches of Yosemite Valley below. The final pitches traverse vegetated chimneys and ledges dappled with manzanita and conifers, giving a quiet shade and a brief moment of calm before the summit push. The top of pitch eight leads you near the ridge, where a short scramble with simple fifth-class moves and some exposed sections bring you to the summit — a hard-earned vantage point overlooking the park’s iconic landscape.

Approach logistics call for a solid day in the mountains with an estimated one to two-hour hike to Michael's Ledges from the trailhead near Yosemite Valley’s north side. The approach trail winds through rugged forest terrain with patches of uneven ground and downed timber. Plan for sturdy footwear, plenty of water, and an early start to avoid climbing in melting afternoon heat or mountain shadows. Descending demands attention, as rappels and a tricky downclimb back to the base require solid route knowledge and caution.

Hawkman’s Escape is not for the casual climber. It requires route-finding skills, readiness for rock that can test your trust, and an adventurous spirit willing to embrace the gritty side of Yosemite trad climbing. This route offers a robust challenge that pays off with a memorable summit experience and a true connection to the wilderness heart of one of America's most famous climbing areas.

Climber Safety

Loose rock presents a serious hazard on chimney pitches four and five—helmet use is critical and move deliberately through these sections. Anchors can be tricky in poor rock, so double-check placements and avoid belaying directly under unstable features. The route also traverses vegetation that can hide hazards and increase slip risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches8
Length900 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon shadows and maximize daylight for the lengthy approach and descent.

Scout Michael's Ledges carefully on the approach to orient yourself before climbing.

Use extra slings to minimize rope drag, especially on linked chimney pitches.

Prepare for variable rock quality—move cautiously on the chimneys and test all placements.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 but this route feels sandbagged. Several pitches are more sustained and burly than the rating suggests, especially the longer crack systems and chimney sections. The route demands solid technical skill and heads-up climbing. Compared to other Yosemite 5.9s, Hawkman's Escape leans harder on route finding and dealing with loose rock, elevating overall difficulty.

Gear Requirements

Bring a rack focused on small to medium sized gear including Aliens and brass offset nuts, complemented by fist-sized cams up to roughly BD #4. Plenty of slings are essential for managing rope drag on chimneys and ledges. Helmets are mandatory for loose rock, and a headlamp is recommended for early starts or late finishes on this long route.

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Tags

chimney
crack climbing
multi-pitch
Yosemite trad
loose rock
route finding
manzanita