"Hangover at The Smoke Bluffs is a brief but demanding trad climb featuring a challenging overhanging splitter crack. Known for staying dry in the rain and requiring precise gear placements, this route is perfect for climbers seeking a technical single-pitch crack with a wilderness edge."
Hangover stands out as a compact yet demanding climb tucked into the raw granite of The Smoke Bluffs, just a short approach from Squamish. This single-pitch trad route, stretching roughly 35 feet, delivers a concentrated burst of technical movement dominated by a sharp, overhanging crack varying from one to four inches wide. As you start, you'll find yourself navigating discontinuous flakes that require careful footwork and steady commitment. The rock here, famously resilient against rain, offers a dry line even when the Squamish drizzle sets in, inviting climbers to test their skills in less-than-perfect weather.
The groove of Hangover trends up and right, moving through textured granite etched with subtle holds and a powerful splitter crack that demands precise finger and hand jams. The route is known to be marginally overgrown, a natural reminder of its quieter status, but don’t let that deter you—clearing a bit of brush will reveal the climb’s true character and holds running clean and solid.
Protection is straightforward yet purposeful: a single rack up to four inches covers the gear needed, with small nuts and TCUs assisting in the opening section where placements can be sparse. Above this initial stretch, the protection placements become more intuitive, allowing for a smooth flow up toward the fixed chain anchors crowning the pitch. It is essential to bring a comprehensive rack to match the variable crack width and keep your placements confident as the rock demands commitment and precision.
Access to Hangover is as minimal as the route itself. The approach winds through the familiar forest trails of The Smoke Bluffs, offering a quick arrival at base with minimal elevation gain and clear GPS markers to guide your way. The surrounding area exudes the rugged beauty typical of Squamish: shady groves, crisp mountain air, and the quiet pulse of the forest accompanying you as you focus on the climb ahead.
Timing your climb here is flexible; the east-facing wall catches morning light but offers shelter from afternoon heat, making it a solid choice for shoulder seasons and variable weather days. Just keep in mind the potential for light brush and always scout the approach carefully to maintain the balance of safety and speed.
For those drawn to routes that challenge technical skill without demanding multi-pitch endurance, Hangover offers an enticing blend of raw granite character, reliable protection, and a touch of wilderness intimacy. Whether you're honing finger crack techniques or seeking a stout project away from busier climbs, this route delivers memorable climbing that rewards focus and finesse.
Watch for light vegetation along the lower flakes that can conceal footholds or gear placements. The overhanging nature of the crack can quickly amplify swings if protection is sparse, so place gear carefully and test all placements thoroughly.
Approach the climb early to avoid afternoon sun and gain better grip on the granite.
Carry a clean-up brush to clear light overgrowth that can obscure holds and gear placements.
Stay hydrated and dress in layers—weather in Squamish can shift quickly, especially near the bluffs.
Double-check your rack for TCUs and a diverse nut set to cover variable crack widths smoothly.
A single rack to 4 inches covers all protection needs. Begin with small nuts and TCUs to secure placements through the first tricky section, then proceed with easier gear placements near the top. Chain anchors provide a reliable finish.
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