HomeClimbingHang Ten

Hang Ten: Classic Trad at Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge

Boulder, Colorado United States
crack climbing
loose rock
single pitch
tree belay
accessible approach
5.8 trad
Length: 45 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hang Ten
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hang Ten delivers a compact, engaging trad climb on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge, featuring split crack options for varying difficulty and a large ledge belay. This single-pitch route offers classic granite crack climbing with accessible protection and a scenic but rugged approach."

Hang Ten: Classic Trad at Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge

Hang Ten stands as a straightforward yet engaging introduction to Eldorado Canyon's iconic West Ridge area, offering climbers a choice of crusade along natural crack systems that test both technique and judgment. The climb begins by threading a pair of conspicuous cracks that lead to a broad ledge, a natural stepping stone where the route splits. Venturing right challenges you with a moderate 5.8 crack requiring steady hand jams and foot placements, offering the more committed and satisfying line. The alternative left crack eases off to 5.6, ideal for those seeking a gentler ascent that still embraces the classic crack climb feel. The rock here is rugged and alive; as you move upward, chunks of looseness along the ledge and near the summit demand a cautious approach. A large tree perched near the top provides a reliable anchor for belaying or topping out, but close attention is needed to avoid scraping loose blocks that could surprise both climbers and belayers below.

The climb stretches approximately 45 feet, making it a single-pitch adventure that packs thoughtful movement and a taste of Eldorado’s storied granite into a brief but memorable package. Protection is light but specific—rack up to a #3 Camalot to secure placements in the varied crack widths, with few fixed pieces, so comfortable gear handling and a solid rack strategy are essential to keep safety in hand. The route’s position along the West Ridge means you’re perched above a stunning landscape, where the surrounding cliffs and nearby Boulder valley stretch out beneath a wide sky. Mornings offer crisp shade with warming sun filtering through as the day progresses, a reminder to time your climb so you avoid slick rock from early moisture or late-day overheating.

Approach involves an established trail that carves its way through the dry, forested canyon floor, clocking in around 20 minutes from the Eldorado Canyon parking areas. The ground underfoot is firm with scattered scree, demanding good hiking shoes and a steady pace. As you prepare, carry ample water and check your rack for loose or worn gear; the route’s modest length belies its need for solid pre-climb preparation. Experienced climbers appreciate Hang Ten for its approachable yet authentic crack climbing, while beginners gain hands-on experience negotiating crack sizes, dealing with variable protection, and reading the rock for stability. Respect the nature here—loose blocks can shift unexpectedly, so keep voices low and movements deliberate.

In short, Hang Ten captures the essence of Eldorado Canyon’s classic trad appeal with a short, focused climb that balances manageable technicality with the wild character of a less-traveled ridge. It’s a fitting challenge for those who want to sharpen crack skills in a stunning setting, with a clear path for safety and solid anchor options. Whether you’re working a first 5.8 or looking for a quick climb to soak in the West Ridge’s rugged charm, this route delivers both the thrill and practical learning without unnecessary complication.

Climber Safety

Loose rock near the ledge and at the top is the main hazard — maintain careful footing and keep your partner clear of potential falling debris. The large tree at the anchor offers secure protection but be alert to surrounding unstable blocks.

Route Details

TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length45 feet

Local Tips

Watch for loose blocks on the ledge and near the top; move carefully to avoid dislodging rock.

Approach from the Eldorado Canyon parking area via a well-marked trail; allow 20 minutes for hiking in.

Gear up with a light rack focused on cams from small to #3; finger to hand size protection is ideal.

Start your climb mid to late morning to avoid wet rock from early moisture and midday heat.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.8, Hang Ten feels true to the grade with a reliable but sustained crack move on the right-hand line that demands respect for technique and route reading. The left crack at 5.6 serves as a solid option for warming up or easing the difficulty. The 5.8 line might feel a bit stiff for very experienced climbers but holds classic Eldorado style — sustained and thoughtful rather than athletic. Compared to nearby routes, this climb offers a forgiving introduction to crack climbing without surprise cruxes.

Gear Requirements

Light rack up to a #3 Camalot covers the crack sizes encountered. No fixed gear is present, so bring a good selection of cams and slings, especially for securing the final belay at the tree anchor.

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Tags

crack climbing
loose rock
single pitch
tree belay
accessible approach
5.8 trad