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Hang 'Em High at Tollhouse Rock

Sierra City, California United States
trad
multi-pitch
quartz dike
blocky ledge
moderate protection
4th class
sierra granite
south-facing
Length: 600 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Hang 'Em High
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hang 'Em High cuts a four-pitch trad line on Tollhouse Rock’s Main Wall, combining moderate bolt protection with hands-on crack climbing. Its blend of technical moves and manageable terrain offers a rewarding introduction to classic Sierra granite trad routes."

Hang 'Em High at Tollhouse Rock

Hang 'Em High offers a raw, classic Sierra Nevada trad experience framed by the rugged contours of Tollhouse Rock’s Main Wall. Starting from a blocky ledge—reachable via either Tollhouse Traverse or The Direct—this route immediately engages climbers with its mixture of moderate bolt protection and hands-on crack climbing. The first pitches weave around quartz dikes and solid granite bands, demanding steady footwork and attentive gear placements primarily up to 1 inch. As you move through the four pitches, the route tones down in technicality, transitioning towards easier 5.7 sections and culminating in a 4th-class scramble over a large ledge to the summit.

The setting is as much a part of the challenge as the climb itself. Sunlight filters through the southern exposures, casting sharp shadows along the crack systems and bolts that guide your ascent. The rock’s texture—all the roughness and small edges typical of Sierra granite—invites you to feel every hold and test your smearing balance. This route rewards steady pacing and situational awareness, especially where bolts are spaced moderately apart, requiring thoughtful placements of cams and nuts.

Gear to bring includes a standard rack with emphasis on smaller pro, as placements up to 1 inch dominate. While bolts exist, they act as guides rather than a safety net—meaning this climb demands both respect for the rock and confidence in traditional protection skills. The approach to the climb is straightforward but involves crossing mixed terrain that slopes gradually upward, so wear supportive footwear suitable for granite scrambles and keep hydrated in this sun-exposed setting.

Experienced climbers will appreciate the route’s blend of technical moves and protection challenges, while intermediate climbers ready to push their trad leads will find this route approachable though engaging. Best attempted in early spring through fall when the weather is stable and the wall dries quickly from Sierra winds.

In short, Hang 'Em High offers a grounded and solid adventure on one of Tollhouse Rock’s well-traveled faces, balancing manageable difficulty with enough variety to hold interest through each pitch. It’s a route where practical climbing skills meet the vivid pulse of Sierra’s granite terrain, inviting a hands-on, memorable experience that leaves climbers poised at the edge—but always supported by thoughtful gear and natural features.

Climber Safety

Moderate bolt spacing means falls can be serious if gear is poorly placed. The blocky ledge at the first belay offers a secure rest, but remain vigilant for old bolts and supplement protection where necessary. Watch for loose rock near quartz dikes, especially on the second pitch.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length600 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid midday heat on the south-facing wall.

Wear shoes with good edging to handle the rough granite texture.

Hydrate well; the approach is exposed and gains elevation steadily.

Double-check anchors due to some older bolts; supplement where needed.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R rating reflects both technical challenges and runout sections where gear placements can be sparse. Unlike typical sport climbs with closely spaced bolts, Hang 'Em High relies on solid trad skills. Compared to similar Tollhouse routes like Marvin's Mantle, this climb feels a bit more committing on protection but remains well within reach for confident 5.8 leaders.

Gear Requirements

Bring a traditional rack focused on placements up to 1 inch to navigate the mix of bolts and natural protection. Moderate bolt spacing means thoughtful gear placement is essential for safety.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
quartz dike
blocky ledge
moderate protection
4th class
sierra granite
south-facing