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Hands Required: The Hardest Moderate Trad Route at Pigeon Cliff

Little Shasta,California ,United States
finger crack
hand crack
traditional
moderate
4th class approach
bolted anchors
Grade: 5.9
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hands Required
Aspect
South Facing

Hands Required

5.9, Trad

Little Shasta

California ,United States

Overview

"Hands Required offers a focused 60-foot trad challenge along the far left of Pigeon Cliff’s West Wall. Combining steady finger and hand jams with gritty rock texture, it rewards careful gear placement and precise movement. This route is a quiet test of 5.9 skills in a raw and remote Northeast California setting."

Hands Required: The Hardest Moderate Trad Route at Pigeon Cliff

Hands Required stakes its claim as the most demanding moderate trad route on the far left flank of West Wall, Pigeon Cliff. This 60-foot climb commands attention with its reliance on steady finger and hand jams, offering a tactile challenge that rewards persistence. The route’s character is shaped by a clean line of medium-sized cracks interspersed with sections that still hold patches of dirt and loose flakes—elements that add a rugged authenticity to the climb but signal the need for careful footwork and attentive cleaning if you want to maximize your hold security. Set against the raw backdrop of Northeast California's high desert, the climb invites you to feel the rock’s gritty texture under your fingertips and listen for the subtle scrape of tools against stone.

Gear up with protection up to 3 inches, because the crack fluctuates in width, demanding good rack organization and confidence in placing cams in uneven fissures. The bolted anchors sit beyond the climb’s end, accessed by a brief 20-foot fourth-class scramble—understand that these fixed hangers won’t offer extra pro, so plan your rappel or descent accordingly. It’s a climb that embraces the spirit of traditional climbing with just enough edge to keep you professionally on your toes, making it an appealing choice for climbers pushing their 5.9 skills in a less crowded, less polished setting.

Pigeon Cliff itself is remote enough to reward the attentive adventurer, perched in a landscape where sagebrush and pine scents drift on dry winds, and miles of rugged terrain stretch to the horizon. Approach demands respect—expect a moderate hike with uneven footing before you reach West Wall’s base. Morning ascents work best here to avoid the afternoon heat that can bake the rock and sap your grip strength. Seasonal windows open in spring and fall, when temperatures hover comfortably, and the wall’s northeast exposure gifts shade when the sun hits the high desert floor.

Hands Required might lack the visual sparkle of more celebrated routes, but its gritty personality and straightforward challenge articulate a distinct voice within California’s climbing catalog. It’s a climb for those who value craftsmanship in placing gear, physical finger strength, and straightforward movement over flashy holds. For climbers seeking a modest but precise 5.9 trad challenge with potential for cleaner ticks on repeat visits, this route stands ready on the far edge of Pigeon Cliff’s West Wall.

Climber Safety

Exercise caution on the 20-foot scramble to the anchors, as loose rock and exposure increase risk. Loose flakes along the climb require vigilant cleaning and careful foot placements to prevent slips. The bolted hangers are reliable but minimal; ensure your gear and rappel readiness before committing.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Aim for morning climbs to avoid heat on the northeast-facing wall.

Bring gear up to 3-inch cams for secure placements.

Prepare for some loose sections and minor cleaning on the route.

Plan your rappel carefully; anchors are accessed by a short 4th class scramble.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade feels measured but honest, with sustained finger jams peppered by occasional hand placements. The route demands solid technique rather than power, making it a reliable test for climbers advancing beyond 5.8. The crux lies in smooth gear transitions and trusted hand jams rather than an imposing physical move, positioning it as slightly stiff but accessible for its rating.

Gear Requirements

Standard trad rack up to 3-inch cams is necessary, with bolted anchors beyond a 20-foot 4th-class scramble. Hangars at the anchors provide fixed rappel points but limited protection extras.

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Tags

finger crack
hand crack
traditional
moderate
4th class approach
bolted anchors