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Hanche Gauche: Tackling the Overhang at Cap Blanc

Quebec City, Quebec Canada
sport climbing
overhang
limestone
single pitch
technical crux
morning sun
riverside views
Length: ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hanche gauche
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hanche Gauche challenges climbers with a sudden overhang crux on solid limestone at Cap Blanc. This brief but sharp sport route demands precise clipping and powerful moves in a stunning riverside setting just outside Quebec City."

Hanche Gauche: Tackling the Overhang at Cap Blanc

Hanche Gauche offers a sharp taste of technical sport climbing on the compact limestone walls of Cap Blanc, situated just outside Quebec City in the Charlevoix region. This single-pitch route demands focused precision right from the start, veering unexpectedly toward a small but challenging overhang that defines its character. The crux is found in this bulging section, requiring climbers to engage both power and technique as they negotiate the tricky moves to reach the second quickdraw—where extra caution is advised. The route’s setting along Pointe-au-Pic provides a rugged backdrop of steep cliffs dropping toward the St. Lawrence River, where wind stirs the trees and the occasional cry of distant birds punctuates the quiet.

The wall’s texture is solid limestone, offering reliable holds but demanding a sharp eye for clipping and foot placement, especially near the overhang where the strain intensifies. Although the climb is short, it packs a test of finger strength and body tension that fits well into a half-day climbing session. Its moderate length makes it approachable for those looking to sharpen their sport climbing skills, while the anchor system uses carefully placed glue-in bolts combined with a secure chain anchor for straightforward top-rope or lead descent.

Getting to Hanche Gauche involves a modest trek along the Cap Blanc trail, where the path threads through mixed forest and occasional open ledges with views down to the river far below. The area is well maintained but expect some loose rock near the base, so solid footwear and attention to footing on approach are key. Spring through early fall presents the best window for this climb, with the wall facing east-southeast that catches morning light and then offers cooling shade in the afternoon.

Climbers should come prepared with a standard sport climbing rack. Since the route depends on glue-in bolts, no trad gear is necessary, but meticulous clipping technique will pay off, especially around the crux. Hydration is critical as the climb demands bursts of effort with minimal rest, and the exposed position above the water can amplify sun and wind effects. Local climbers emphasize checking weather conditions before heading out since wet limestone can quickly turn slick and unforgiving.

For anyone in the Quebec climbing scene, Hanche Gauche is a precise, intense climb that sharpens your ability to read bolt placements and manage overhang dynamics. It’s an ideal pick for those who appreciate a brief but focused challenge, framed by the wild beauty of Charlevoix’s coastal cliffs.

Climber Safety

Be cautious clipping the second quickdraw positioned right after the overhang; the exposure can cause sticks or ropes to hang awkwardly. Loose rock at the base demands attentive footing on approach. Avoid climbing when the limestone is wet as the holds become dangerously slick.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach with sturdy footwear due to loose rock near the base.

Climb during spring to early fall for optimal dry conditions and comfortable temperatures.

Clip the second draw carefully to avoid hang-ups at the crux.

Check weather forecasts—wet limestone can be hazardous and slippery.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10b/c
Quality
Consensus:At 5.10b/c, Hanche Gauche presents a tested but approachable challenge, with the overhang crux requiring precise footwork and solid clipping technique. The grade aligns well with other regional sport climbs but feels slightly stiff due to the commitment required at the bolt clipping section.

Gear Requirements

The route relies exclusively on glue-in bolts with a well-established anchor chain. Bring a standard sport rack focusing on quickdraws and focus on smooth, safe clipping through the overhanging crux section.

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Tags

sport climbing
overhang
limestone
single pitch
technical crux
morning sun
riverside views