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Ham Sandwich at Lover's Leap: A Raw Trad Climb on East Wall

South Lake Tahoe, California United States
trad gear
runout
granite face
multi-pitch
lake tahoe
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Ham Sandwich
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Ham Sandwich is a bold tradition-bound route on East Wall at Lover's Leap, stripped of its bolts and demanding clean gear placements. Spanning three pitches, this climb rewards experienced trad climbers willing to embrace its runout sections and natural granite cracks."

Ham Sandwich at Lover's Leap: A Raw Trad Climb on East Wall

Ham Sandwich offers a stripped-down traditional climbing experience on the East Wall of Lover's Leap, perfect for climbers who crave raw lines and sharp route-finding. Long ago, the route's few remaining bolts were removed or destroyed, leaving climbers to rely solely on gear placements for protection. The climb begins about 15 feet to the right of Bears Reach, ascending a steep face where bold moves and careful placement define the pitch. The opening pitch runs past one old bolt and some natural gear placements, finishing at a small belay ledge roughly even with Bears Reach’s first belay. The rock here is solid granite, presenting crack systems and edges that demand precise footwork and steady hands. Pitch two continues up, passing another lone bolt before crossing into East Wall’s terrain and linking to the top.

This route challenges you to trust your gear and reading of the rock. Protection relies heavily on nuts and cams up to around 2 inches, so a well-organized rack is essential to maintain confidence on the face. Because the bolts have been removed, Ham Sandwich carries a serious R rating, indicating potential runouts and risk requiring focus and composure.

Approaching via the Highway 50 corridor near Lake Tahoe, you’ll find the East Wall a striking granite face exposed to open air and changing light. The area’s elevation creates a crisp alpine atmosphere, with pine-framed views extending toward the surrounding Sierra landscape. The trailhead lies just off the road with a short but rocky access hike that requires attention to footing.

If you decide to take on Ham Sandwich, pacing yourself and being deliberate with each placement are critical. The route’s modest length across three pitches means it can be climbed in a half day, but the mental focus required elevates it beyond a simple outing. Timing your climb for a mild day outside summer’s peak heat or early fall’s shift will reward you with comfortable granite temperatures and fewer crowds.

Once at the top, climbers typically descend by rappelling down East Wall or scrambling toward established trails. Be prepared for some loose debris near the rappel anchors. Given its condition and protection style, Ham Sandwich suits climbers experienced with traditional gear and willing to step into a bold, history-steeped line. It stands as a reminder that not every route needs polished bolts to challenge and excite.

Climber Safety

Protection is scarce with all bolts removed, so unsteady gear placements or loose rock could lead to serious falls. Climbers should be confident placing nuts and cams in granite cracks and remain vigilant near fractured rock sections, especially on the descent where unstable debris sometimes gathers.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches3
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach via the Highway 50 corridor trailhead, watch for loose rocks near the base.

Climb early in the day for cooler granite and avoid afternoon sun exposure.

Double-check all gear placements; the route’s R rating demands careful protection.

Rappel down East Wall anchors cautiously—loose debris can be present.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 R, Ham Sandwich carries a rating that reflects more than technical difficulty. The technical moves hover around 5.9, but the sparse protection and removed bolts mean runouts elevate the seriousness. The rating feels stiff in terms of mental challenge compared to nearby climbs like Bears Reach, which maintains more fixed protection, making Ham Sandwich a choice for climbers prioritizing trad adventure over security.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack focusing on nuts and cams up to 2 inches; the route’s protection consists only of natural gear placements since all bolts have been removed. A single set of nut tools is helpful due to the need for precise placements and potential stuck gear removal.

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Tags

trad gear
runout
granite face
multi-pitch
lake tahoe