HomeClimbingHalf Flaked

Half Flaked at The Wall Ridge, Buena Vista Colorado

Buena Vista, Colorado United States
slab
crack climbing
single pitch
tree anchor
Colorado granite
trad gear
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Half Flaked
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A focused 70-foot trad climb on The Wall Ridge, Half Flaked challenges with slab moves leading to broad cracks and twin flakes. Perfect for climbers refining crack technique, it offers reliable protection and quiet surroundings just outside Buena Vista, Colorado."

Half Flaked at The Wall Ridge, Buena Vista Colorado

Half Flaked offers a crisp, focused trad climb on the Ridge at The Wall, just outside Buena Vista, Colorado. This 70-foot pitch unspools along a slab that quickly demands keen attention, leading you to a pair of sizable flakes that define the route’s character. The climb moves steadily upward, following a broad crack that invites solid hand and finger jams, providing both challenge and confidence. The granite here feels alive under your fingertips, cool and textured, as the route guides you toward a sturdy tree that serves as a secure top anchor. The approach to this climb weaves through open forest and rocky shelves, with altitude lending a thinness to the air that urges a measured pace.

The Wall Ridge’s exposure blends with the expansive views of the Colorado high country—pine-covered ridges stretch outward, punctuated by the distant peaks that catch afternoon light. Half Flaked is an ideal pick for climbers developing their crack climbing skills or those looking for a straightforward yet rewarding single pitch that demands precision but doesn’t overstay its welcome. The route’s 5.8 rating sits comfortably for most parties with basic crack experience, though slab technique is key for the initial moves.

Protection is straightforward: a single rack up to 4 inches covers the placements well, with the flakes themselves offering solid stances to place gear without chasing tiny cams. This simplicity lends a clean feel to the climb, focusing attention on the movement and flow rather than gear logistics. The climbing area itself is quiet, granting a measure of solitude away from busier Colorado crags, yet close enough to Buena Vista for quick access to food, lodging, and gear resupplies.

Seasonal conditions play a role here—summer midday sun can bake the slab surface, so early morning or late afternoon climbs bring better friction and comfort. Fall reveals a sharp contrast, with cool air and golden aspens framing the climb. Waterproof shoes with sticky rubber and a light set of cams will serve admirably. Keep water handy and watch weather forecasts closely; afternoon thunderstorms in the Rockies arrive fast and with little warning.

Approach trails to The Wall Ridge are well-maintained but include some loose scree near the base, so stable footwear and careful footing remain essential. Descent is straightforward from the anchor tree: a single rappel or a careful downclimb on the ridge’s easier terrain leads climbers safely back to the trailhead.

For those seeking a short, engaging climb that tests crack skills while offering a quiet taste of Colorado’s highland granite, Half Flaked rewards with solid moves, sensible protection, and a gratifying summit view. It captures the sharp, physical pleasure of traditional climbing without the commitment of longer multi-pitch routes, making it a must-consider for travelers passing through the Buena Vista climbing corridor.

Climber Safety

Be cautious on the slab’s smooth sections where footing can feel insecure, especially if wet. The anchor tree is robust but clip carefully to avoid rope abrasion. Monitor weather closely; storms bring slick rock and rapid change in conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to dodge midday heat on the slab.

Bring a light rack focused on cams up to 4 inches; smaller gear is less useful here.

Check weather forecasts carefully—afternoon thunderstorms can roll in quickly.

Use sturdy approach shoes; loose scree near the base demands careful footing.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:Half Flaked’s 5.8 rating feels approachable with solid fundamentals in crack and slab climbing. The slab moves just before the flakes require clean footwork and balance, offering a crux that lifts the grade slightly above easy 5.7. Compared to neighboring lines, it’s a straightforward, reliable climb without unexpected difficulty spikes.

Gear Requirements

Carry a single rack up to 4 inches to cover all protection spots effectively. The double flakes provide good stances for placements without requiring tiny cams or nuts. Sticky rubber shoes will enhance grip on the slab sections.

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Tags

slab
crack climbing
single pitch
tree anchor
Colorado granite
trad gear