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Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow: Mastering Trust on Little Baldy's Sport Face

Three Rivers, California United States
precision footwork
single pitch
sun-exposed
granite face
anchor rappel
Length: 160 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow carves a 160-foot line up Little Baldy's sunlit granite face, demanding precise foot trust and steady commitment. This focused sport climb blends technical finesse with stunning mountain quietude, making it a must-try for climbers who value control and flow."

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow: Mastering Trust on Little Baldy's Sport Face

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow challenges climbers with a focused lesson in footwork and commitment on Little Baldy’s clean, vertical face. Located within the wild expanse of Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park, this 160-foot sport route demands precision and mental resolve from the very start. The climb’s approach requires a bit of route-finding savvy; beginning from the optimal spot smooths the transition to the first bolt and sets the tone for the rest of the pitch. The rock is immaculate and unforgiving, its texture inviting you to lean into delicate foot placements rather than brute strength. Throughout the ascent, the wall’s sun-exposed granite warms the fingers and throws sharp shadows that reveal every hold and edge with crisp clarity.

As you move upward, the holds encourage a rhythm that builds confidence step by step—you quickly realize that this route rewards those who listen closely to their feet and stay present. The protection is straightforward, equipped with well-placed bolts for clipping, but the challenge lies in trusting those small edges and precise body positioning. Being able to read the rock carefully and commit when the feet feel slender but true is crucial.

The beauty of Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow comes not just from its technical demands but from the setting itself. The climb shares the serenity and quiet isolation of the national park, where towering sequoias and crisp mountain air surround you. After the effort, the descent is simple with a single 160-foot rappel, letting you savor the moment before returning to the forest floor.

Preparation-wise, climbers should bring ample draws and a rope long enough for a full descent. Extra webbing or a tag line is smart for securing the anchor during rappel. Given the exposure and the sun’s strength, starting early in the day helps keep muscles fresh and reduces heat buildup. Robust climbing shoes with sticky rubber will maximize grip on the small edges that dominate the climb.

In short, this route is a direct but rewarding lesson in trust—between climber and rock, foot and handhold—making it a memorable highlight for sport climbers visiting Little Baldy. Whether fine-tuning technique or pushing into the 5.10a range, Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow offers focused experience wrapped in the quiet grandeur of California’s high country.

Climber Safety

The approach to the first bolt involves some tricky moves where footing can be uncertain; be cautious and deliberate to avoid slips. The anchor, while solid, benefits from additional webbing for redundancy before rappelling. Also, watch for rock temperature—sunlight can heat the granite quickly, making holds feel slick or too warm mid-day.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length160 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid overheating and get the best light on the wall.

Scout the route carefully—finding the right start point eases the approach to the first bolt.

Bring extra webbing for the anchor; fixed gear may not be fully reliable.

Use climbing shoes optimized for small edges to maximize foot confidence.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels fairly honest here, with a subtle crux that hinges on confident foot placements rather than sustained power. Climbers with a solid foothold and balance technique will find this route approachable, though the lead-in to the first bolt can raise the mental game a notch. Compared to nearby sport routes, it stands out for its clean, technical nature rather than physical intensity.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full rack of draws plus a rope capable of a 160-foot rappel. Including some webbing or a tag line can help secure the anchor for a safe descent. Shoes with sticky rubber are essential.

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Tags

precision footwork
single pitch
sun-exposed
granite face
anchor rappel