"Hair Lip offers a powerful mix of crack and face climbing on Suicide Rock’s iconic granite. Featuring a bold barn door lieback crux and solid bolt protection, this single-pitch route demands precision and grit with morning sun warming the rock."
Hair Lip stands out on the rocky face of Suicide Rock, offering climbers a compelling blend of technical crack and face climbing set against the raw backdrop of Southern California’s granite cliffs. Beginning just left of the broad, right-facing chimney known as Hot Buttered Rump, this route challenges you with steadily increasing difficulty as you ascend. The climb quickly moves into a series of cracks that demand committed hand jams and delicate footwork, pushing your crack skills early. As you gain height, the features shift toward slabby face moves that require balance and finger strength to navigate.
Approaching the crux, you come face-to-face with the chimney’s sharp, jutting lip. Here, the rock dares you into a barn door lieback—an unsettling but exhilarating sequence that feels like hanging on the edge of control, relying on the lip’s holds to keep you tethered. The exposure adds a psychological edge, as a fall here could mean sailing out over open air, but solid bolt placements nearby ease the mindset somewhat.
Protection is straightforward yet strategic: a light trad rack is sufficient, supplemented by three well-spaced bolts that guard the most serious moves. This combination allows for confident play without crowding the rock with gear. Expect a single pitch climbing 150 feet, which you can savor in the early daylight as Hair Lip enjoys the warming morning sun on its granite face.
The approach to Suicide Rock is manageable, and the area’s openness offers excellent vantage points to watch the rhythm of the climb unfold. Be prepared for some technical foot placements on clean, textured rock. The climb offers a bold test of technique and nerve, perfectly suited for climbers looking to push their trad skills with a memorable and physically engaging route.
Timing your climb for morning improves conditions, as the sun hits the route directly, warming the stone and making holds less slick. Though moderate protection is provided, this climb demands careful gear placements and respect for the exposure, rewarding those willing to commit with a thrilling ride up classic Southern California granite.
The barn door crux is exposed and demands concentration; a fall here could carry you over the edge despite bolts. Check placements carefully and commit confidently to avoid pendulum risk. Rock is generally sound but watch for loose flakes near the chimney lip.
Start early to climb Hair Lip in the warmer morning sun.
Carry a light rack focused on finger to hand-sized cams.
Watch your foot placements on slab sections for maximum grip.
Approach Suicide Rock via the trailhead near Idyllwild; it's about a 15-minute walk to base.
A light trad rack paired with three well-placed bolts covers the protection needed for Hair Lip. Focus on small cams and nuts appropriate for finger and hand cracks to secure the approach to the crux, where bolts guard the barn door lieback sequence.
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