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Gunsmoke: A Precise Trad Challenge in Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Big Bear Lake, California United States
left-facing corner
face holds
single pitch
bolt anchor
San Bernardino Mountains
Big Bear Lake
trad protection
Length: 50 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Gunsmoke
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Gunsmoke offers a direct and dependable 50-foot trad climb up a clean left-facing corner on Holcomb Valley Pinnacles. Ideal for trad climbers seeking a solid 5.9 challenge with quality protection and rewarding views over Big Bear Lake."

Gunsmoke: A Precise Trad Challenge in Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Gunsmoke presents a focused and accessible trad climbing experience tucked into the rugged contours of Holcomb Valley Pinnacles, just north of Big Bear Lake. The route catches your eye immediately with its sharp left-facing corner, a natural line that invites climbers to engage directly with the rock’s texture and flow. Here, stances shift between solid jams and well-placed face holds, which offer secure hand and foot placements amid the sun-warmed sandstone. This single pitch, spanning about 50 feet, demands careful gear placement up to 4 inches, giving climbers the chance to craft their own protection rhythm, while a lone bolt higher on the face adds a reassuring clip before reaching the roomy anchors above.

The high desert air pulses lightly through the cracks as the wall faces east, catching morning light that warms the rock and makes for ideal early starts before the midday heat sets in. The approach is relatively short and straightforward, crossing through stands of sparse pine and rock-strewn trails that steadily climb toward the base. This section of San Bernardino Mountains offers open views that stretch over the valley, hinting at the expansive wild lands surrounding the climb.

Gunsmoke fits well within the moderate 5.9 YDS grade, a classic line that doesn’t overreach but tests solid footwork, gear savvy, and route reading. Climbers should expect a pitch anchored on a large ledge, giving enough room to rest and savor the elevation with panoramic glimpses over Big Bear’s landscape. While the route sees modest traffic, its lower star rating reflects a straightforward style rather than a lack of interest—here, the focus is on clean movement, trusting your placements, and enjoying a spot of solitude amid the pinnacles.

Preparations deserve attention to gear choices: a full rack with cams up to 4 inches will cover placements comfortably, while careful rope management is necessary for clipping the single bolt above the corner. Footwear with solid edging capability proves advantageous on the face holds that link the jammed corner moves. Early season climbs benefit from cooler mornings and less crowded trails, making Gunsmoke an excellent pick for those seeking a practical and engaging trad route within a striking mountain setting.

In sum, Gunsmoke is a disciplined climb that rewards precision and steadiness. It sits in a climbing area known for its sturdy granite and accessible trad options, providing a perfect introduction to multi-pitch climbing dynamics in southern California’s San Bernardino range.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose debris near the ledge anchors and maintain focused gear placements up to 4 inches. The approach trail can be slippery when wet, so plan accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch the morning sun on the east-facing wall and avoid midday heat.

Footwear with precise edging enhances performance on featured face holds.

Prepare for a short but rugged approach through rocky, pine-scalloped terrain.

Use moderate rack sizes; smaller cams won’t protect the wider cracks safely.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating aligns well with the straightforward climbing style, with a clean crux where face holds lead past the lone bolt. The grade feels consistent and manageable but expects technical foot placement and careful gear. Compared to other local 5.9s, Gunsmoke feels solidly in the middle range, offering a balanced challenge without unexpected difficulties.

Gear Requirements

Carry a full trad rack including cams up to 4 inches for secure protection. Expect one bolt higher on the face for clipping before the anchors on a large ledge.

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Tags

left-facing corner
face holds
single pitch
bolt anchor
San Bernardino Mountains
Big Bear Lake
trad protection