In the rugged terrain of the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon, Gunsmoke stands out as a brief but memorable chimney climb that offers both challenge and charm. Unlike the other two chimneys that dominate this corner of the Firing Chamber, Gunsmoke invites climbers to ascend a distinctive third chimney, where three separate cracks meet in a narrow, flared corner. The route demands attention to technique and gear, with an offset crack providing a natural line for protection placements that keep the climb secure on traditional gear. As you move upward, the shifting angles of the chimney force steady footwork and a focus on body positioning, making it a rewarding finish to this trio of routes in the area.

Once on top, a stable belay awaits on a large boulder secured with a cordalette, offering a moment to catch your breath and take in the canyon’s rugged surroundings. The climb itself stretches just 30 feet, making it ideal for climbers looking for a short, focused challenge that doesn’t skimp on character. The rock in this part of the canyon feels solid and the cracks, while flared, provide reliable holds but require a measured approach.

Safety on Gunsmoke revolves around careful gear placement. A set of Aliens from small to 1.5 inches fits the protection needs perfectly, accommodating the varying widths of the offset crack. The route’s rating of 5.8- suggests approachable difficulty for most trad climbers, but the chimney’s shape and cramped positioning can add a bit of spice to the ascent.

The setting itself is straightforward: located within the Fourth Band area’s Country-Western Crags, it’s easily accessible for those staying near Lyons, Colorado. Its proximity to the St. Vrain Canyons ensures a blend of rugged beauty and manageable approach logistics, making Gunsmoke an excellent warm-up or a finishing pitch in a day of climbing. The route’s short length means it’s perfect for climbers eager to hone chimney skills without committing to an extended climb.

Preparation is key—bring sturdy footwear with good edging capability, as chimney moves demand secure foot placements. Hydration and timing matter, too, especially in warmer months when sun exposure in the canyon increases. Early starts can help avoid heat on the slick granite, while late spring and fall usually offer the best conditions.

In brief, Gunsmoke offers a rewarding chimney ascent with just enough complexity to keep you engaged. It’s a route best approached with respect for its challenges but also appreciation for the straightforward pleasure of moving through and around the canyon’s natural features. Consider this one your final verse in the canyon’s chimney chorus, a climb that balances technical interest with accessible length and protection.