HomeClimbingGun for the Sun

Gun for the Sun

Twentynine Palms, California USA
crack climbing
runout sections
desert trad
single-pitch
Joshua Tree
sun-exposed
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Gun for the Sun
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Gun for the Sun offers a focused single-pitch trad climb through a sequence of technical cracks and corners in Joshua Tree's Wonderland of Rocks. Its mix of runout sections and varied protection challenges climbers to stay sharp, while the desert setting rewards with sweeping sun-soaked granite."

Gun for the Sun

Gun for the Sun is a compact but compelling trad climb carved into the rugged gritstone of Joshua Tree’s Wonderland of Rocks. This single-pitch route demands focused effort on a series of corner cracks, beginning just left of the distinct, tucked-away "As the Wind Blows" corner. The climb unfolds with a tactile progression through a patchwork of discontinuous cracks, requiring steady footwork and precise hand jams that test both technique and resolve. After navigating to the first bolt, a long run leads to a second bolt that intensifies the challenge with a more exposed section rated 5.9 R, reminding climbers to respect the runout and position themselves carefully. Watch for the historic buttonhead bolts—recently replaced as of 2015—but still carry a well-rounded standard rack to cover the varied pro placements this climb demands.

Once past the bolt ladder, you face a choice: aim leftward and upward for a gentler finish that eases ankle tension and solidifies your confidence, or push straight up for a direct, more demanding 5.10a/b finish that rewards commitment with cleaner moves and steeper terrain. The route culminates at a two-bolt anchor offering a secure perch above this stark granite outcrop. From here, a straightforward 90-foot rappel delivers a swift descent back to the base.

Accessing Gun for the Sun places you in the heart of Joshua Tree National Park, within an intricate web of granite boulders that soak in the southern California sun and cast sharp shadows in the afternoon. The approach traces the familiar North Wonderland path, weaving through sturdy shrubs and sandy stretches, a brief fifteen-minute hike that primes climbers mentally and physically. The desert air is dry, occasionally interrupted by a breeze that sneaks through the rocky maze, carrying the distant calls of native birds and the faint rustle of lizards darting among the stones.

Gear up with a standard trad rack focusing on a versatile selection of cams and nuts. Pro placements vary from finger-sized corners to wider crack sections, all demanding careful evaluation as the rock rewards thoughtful protection but punishes complacency. Expect some runout sections where the bolts anchor your security, but remember their age—replacements in 2015 improved reliability but vigilance remains key.

Timing your climb for early morning delivers cooler temperatures and avoids the direct afternoon sun that intensifies the heat on Joshua Tree’s exposed faces. Spring and fall offer prime conditions when the desert blooms are sparse but temperatures are balanced, perfect for both climbing and the approach hike.

Gun for the Sun is a rewarding climb for those who appreciate solid crack work and a route with character rather than sheer length. It embodies Joshua Tree’s spirit: raw, exposed, and demanding respect from climbers willing to meet the challenge head-on. Whether you’re sharpening your crack skills or seeking a precise single-pitch adventure in one of California’s iconic climbing destinations, this route is a worthy addition to your itinerary.

Climber Safety

The route’s protection is bolstered by two bolts, but both anchors and bolts are exposed and have been replaced only recently. Expect sharp edges on the granite, potential for finger cuts, and be prepared for runouts—only attempt if comfortable placing solid traditional gear and managing risk.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the afternoon heat on exposed rock.

Approach via North Wonderland Trail—expect about a 15-minute hike through sandy, shrub-lined terrain.

Bring shoes with good edge support for crack jamming and delicate footwork.

Double-check slings and anchors at the top before rappelling.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9 R, Gun for the Sun presents a modest but serious challenge. The 'R' signifies riskier runouts between bolts, demanding climbers stay composed and confident in their trad placements. The grade feels true to standard 5.9 difficulty but the runout amplifies risk, making it feel stiffer. Compared to other Joshua Tree routes of similar grade, this climb holds its own with sustained crack work under desert sun conditions.

Gear Requirements

Carry a standard trad rack emphasizing cams and nuts to protect finger to hand-sized cracks. Two bolts protect the runout section, recently updated in 2015 for improved safety. Expect some tricky placements and bring caution around the sandstone's solid but sometimes sharp edges.

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Tags

crack climbing
runout sections
desert trad
single-pitch
Joshua Tree
sun-exposed