Guillotine offers a striking trad climbing experience perched on the edge of the Atlantic, where the ocean’s spray meets rugged, fine-grained rock. This single-pitch, 100-foot route demands a quiet confidence with crack climbing skills as it starts narrow but quickly widens to hand-sized jamming before eventually swelling even broader. The rock feels alive under your hands, cool and textured, inviting careful placement and steady movement. The crack itself is lively and changes character mid-ascent, briefly tightening in sections that push you toward the adjacent finger cracks, which serve as critical escape routes through the crux.

Navigating these narrow seam variations requires both technique and forethought, as the face holds nearby soften the difficulty but require balance and precision. As you approach the top, you’ll avoid an overhanging, loose chimney—a stretch best left untouched—by traversing left to reach a large, stable ledge. From here, the climbing eases to low-5th class moves, ascending a corner to reach the top ledge, where a sturdy tree anchor awaits.

This route hugs the Main Face of Flatrock on Newfoundland’s Avalon Peninsula, an area renowned for its raw beauty and ocean vistas that seem to stretch toward the horizon. The approach follows well-tread paths that wind through coastal forest and rocky outcrops, setting the stage for an adventurous day away from urban bustle. The sound of waves rushing against the shore below adds a soundtrack to your ascent, while the salt breeze reminds you of the elemental nature of this climb.

Protection is straightforward with a standard rack up to 3-inch cams, including doubles in the hand jam size to tackle the widening crack sections confidently. Both the bottom gear anchor and the top tree anchor accommodate a variety of nuts and cams, making anchor building flexible but essential for safety.

Though Guillotine is rated 5.9, the grade feels thoughtfully calibrated with its tricky crack positioning and the crux finger cracks bumping the overall effort just slightly beyond a straightforward hard 5.8. Climbers familiar with the granite cracks of nearby areas will find familiar challenges but should prepare for the variable rock texture and occasional loose blocks near the chimney section.

Plan for a day with stable, dry weather to keep the rock firm and friction reliable. Footwear with sticky soles and good crack-specific technique will go a long way here. The approach takes 20-30 minutes, winding through mixed terrain, so wear sturdy shoes and bring water. Midday sun hits the face with clear exposure, making early morning starts ideal for cooler, more comfortable conditions.

Descend by rappelling from the tree anchor or downclimb carefully on the easier terrain from the top ledge. Watch for loose rock on the chimney and ledge area during descent, especially after rain or freeze-thaw cycles. With solid protection, a scenic ocean backdrop, and a crack sequence that tests both stamina and finesse, Guillotine delivers a memorable trad climb anchored in nature’s raw edge.