Spanning rugged terrain just above 11,000 feet near Independence Pass, the Guide Route delivers an eight-pitch alpine trad climb that combines solid technical moves with the raw beauty of Colorado’s high country. This route appeals to climbers eager to experience diverse moderate climbing, moving through distinctive features like the Coral, the Wave, and the Wild Tower. Each pitch complements the next with shifts between bolted faces and natural gear placements, offering a perfect balance of protection and adventure.

From the trailhead, you approach a series of well-established climbs that blend into a fluid ascent. The first pitch, borrowed from Bottom Feeder, serves up a manageable 5.6 introduction, weaving across a ledge carefully shielded by bolts that keep your line clean and your mind calm. Progressing to Cleaning the Coral, natural gear placements take the lead on mostly solid rock, demanding a watchful eye but providing comfort in the form of secure pro.

Midway through, the climb transitions into a highlight pitch on the Wave: Surfing in a Snowstorm. This 5.6 bolt-protected section is anchored by beautiful edges that test footwork and balance, rewarded by sweeping views of the surrounding Wild Ridge Area. The climb continues to the Rip Rap, a boulder-strewn ledge that challenges you to find footing while offering a moment to breathe and soak in the alpine air.

Wild Tower rises next, an alpine sentinel with a bolted 5.8 crack and face climb that tests strength and finesse. The moss-framed edges and hand jams invite a patient approach; several bolts punctuate the pitch but natural gear placements remain essential, reinforcing the traditional character of this alpine experience. A short scramble and fourth-class ridge travel lead climbers toward the final pitch: a step right onto exposed slabs with exciting layback moves that culminate in a satisfying finish on solid anchor trees.

Protection on the Guide Route requires a mixed rack: a single set of cams and wires is sufficient, supplemented by draws for the bolt-protected pitches. The complexity and length of the route reward climbers who prepare for varied terrain, including short traverses across ledges and careful rope management to avoid loose rock. The route’s unique feature is the way it loops through multiple classic climbs to form a longer, cohesive alpine adventure.

Weather can turn quickly at this elevation, so timing is crucial. Morning starts help avoid afternoon storms, while sturdy footwear and layered clothing guard against the chill and variability in conditions. Hydration remains a top priority on the approach and during rests on exposed ledges.

Descending is straightforward: the standard walk-off on the skier’s right provides a safe exit with minimal exposure. Alternatively, retreating back to nearby rappels above Held Under offers opportunities to extend your session on the Wave, doubling your alpine mileage and enjoyment. Whether you’re seeking a memorable day climb or a gateway alpine classic, the Guide Route challenges and rewards with a blend of technical climbing and natural grandeur.