"Guardian Plan veers off from the classic chimney start to deliver a compact 80-foot push across an exposed face with delicate gear placements and a loose finish. It offers climbers a quiet, technical option on Pass Walls near Independence Pass, demanding steady feet and careful protection."
Guardian Plan presents an engaging, single-pitch challenge on the rugged cliffs of Pass Walls near Independence Pass, Colorado. Beginning at the same anchor as the more popular Chimney Route, this climb quickly diverts to the right before the narrow squeeze of the chimney. Climbers find themselves navigating an indentation beneath a modest roof, offering a momentary pocket of shadow and texture before moving onto the open face. This face leans left toward the top, where loose and dirtier holds demand deliberate movement and a cautious eye for protection placements. The route's 80 feet are compact but demand focus: the mix of subtle features and a lack of extensive fixed protection keeps you truly engaged in reading the rock.
The route’s 5.9 PG13 rating hints at a technical edge that feels approachable yet unforgiving where protection thins. Expect to place solid gear along cracks and flakes, but beware the loose sections near the upper finish. Guardian Plan is perfect for climbers wanting to move beyond the chimney’s classic line into less trafficked terrain where nature tests your route-finding and commitment. The crux isn’t overly sustained but rewards attention to footwork and gear strategy.
Accessing Pass Walls requires a sturdy approach through alpine terrain with patches of loose scree and sparse forest cover, making early starts preferable before the afternoon sun warms the faces. The rock surface responds well to dry conditions, so check weather especially for spring when snowmelt can linger deeper in the gullies nearby. The elevation around 11,000 feet subtly reminds climbers to pace hydration and breathing—thin air sharpens focus and test endurance.
Without dedicated anchors atop Guardian Plan, climbers often utilize the Chimney Route’s established gear, so a 10-foot extension sling or rope comes highly recommended to safely clip in and avoid rope drag. This practicality keeps the descent straightforward: a single rappel or careful downclimb back to the base. As always in alpine environments, solid footwear and a layered approach to clothing prepare you for shifting conditions, while route beta, a helmet, and a cautious mindset seal the day’s safety.
Guardian Plan’s balance of exposed face climbing and a subtly dirty upper section provides a real-feel experience of alpine trad climbing, revealing the uncompromising beauty and challenges of Pass Walls. Whether as a stepping stone to harder lines or a rewarding standalone climb, it demands respect and rewards precision.
Loose rock near the top requires deliberate protection and careful movement. Without dedicated anchors, using Chimney Route’s may involve extending your sling to avoid rope drag and ensure secure rappelling.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun and maximize dry conditions on the face.
Carry a 10-foot sling or extension for safe anchor clipping.
Wear solid-soled climbing shoes for precise foot placements on subtle features.
Hydrate well and acclimate due to the high elevation near 11,000 feet.
No dedicated anchors currently sit at the top of Guardian Plan. It’s advisable to bring a 10-foot extension to clip into Chimney Route’s anchors if you're planning a rappel or lowering.
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