"Grunge presents a hands-on trad route that climbs a clean book fold crack in Mount Nemo’s Central Zone. Its single pitch challenges you with steady jams and a standout bulge exit, making it an ideal climb for trad climbers who appreciate natural protection and a straightforward approach."
Grunge offers a straightforward but physically engaging climb that starts just a meter above the worn trail in Mount Nemo’s Central Zone. As you descend the Falling Tom gully and head north, the route comes into view marked by a discrete yellow '16b', presenting a quiet challenge amidst the familiar scramble. This single-pitch climb climbs 60 feet along a clear book fold, featuring a crack that invites steady hand jams and secure placements. The crack’s rhythm carries you upward to a bold bulge—this is the defining feature that tests your strength and technique. To your left, a ledge crowned by a broad tree marks a natural exit, providing both a goal and a moment to catch your breath.
Unlike sport routes underpinned by bolts and fixed anchors, Grunge demands a full trad rack. Expect to carry an extensive selection of gear. The placement opportunities are generous but require attentive evaluation to ensure reliability. Runners and cams fit well within the crack system, but some sections call for careful judgment, especially near the bulge where protection can be sparse and placement trickier. The rock itself is rugged, offering solid holds but keeping you on your toes.
Mount Nemo’s Central Zone rewards those ready for a climb that feels grounded and honest. The trail access is straightforward; the descent through Falling Tom gully is a mix of loose rocks and exposed roots, demanding sturdy boots and careful footwork. The location offers a quiet space, removed from busier areas, where the focus settles naturally on technique and flow. Whether you’re refining finger jams or gauging your trad rack’s versatility, this route blends the accessible with just enough challenge.
The climb suits early spring through fall, with shade sweeping in during afternoon hours to offset the sun’s heat. The forest around feels alive—the whisper of leaves and the occasional birdcall heighten your concentration as you ascend. On top, the ledge offers a subtle reward; the presence of the large tree is a comforting landmark in the otherwise vertical realm, signaling you’ve earned a moment of pause. For trad enthusiasts seeking a no-frills route drilled in practicality and natural detail, Grunge stands as a welcome test on Ontario’s rock.
Watch your footing on the approach through Falling Tom gully—loose rocks and exposed roots mean cautious steps. On the climb, placements around the bulge are less straightforward, so double-check gear stability before committing to moves above. The ledge exit near the large tree offers a stable endpoint but avoid lingering on less solid rock edges.
Descend Falling Tom gully carefully; it can be slippery with loose roots and rocks.
Look for the yellow '16b' mark near the trail for the route start.
Early morning or late afternoon climbs avoid the harshest sun on the wall.
Wear sturdy footwear for both approach and descent along uneven terrain.
Prepare a full trad rack as placements require a diverse range of cams and nuts to confidently protect the continuous crack and the bulge near the top. Bring what climbers often call the 'kitchen sink' to cover all gear sizes.
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