Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingGrey Rat Rocksicle

Grey Rat Rocksicle: Technical Trad on the South Slabs

Fort Collins, Colorado United States
slab
crack
small gear
runout
Poudre Canyon
trad
moderate approach
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Grey Rat Rocksicle
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A technical slab and crack challenge tucked just left of Shadow Dance, Grey Rat Rocksicle demands precise footwork and careful gear placements on a sustained 5.8 R pitch. Its thoughtful sequence and runout sections offer a rewarding route for trad climbers who prize finesse and focus."

Grey Rat Rocksicle: Technical Trad on the South Slabs

Grey Rat Rocksicle offers an engaging taste of technical slab and crack climbing that demands focus and finesse. Sitting just a short stride left of Shadow Dance within the South Slabs area, this 90-foot single-pitch route challenges climbers to read the subtle rhythm of the rock. The climb begins at a distinct large boulder positioned roughly 15 to 20 feet lower than the main ledge, setting the stage for a climb that blends delicate face moves with carefully placed gear. Early on, the route forces a runout through a handful of 5.8 face moves, testing concentration and footwork before reaching the left-angling seam where small, precise protection placements become critical. These tricky pro spots reward patience and gear savvy as they secure you through sustained slab sections.

As the climb rises, it continues to weave through subtle textures and cracks, offering a rewarding combination of slab climbing and seam placements. The upper section skirts beneath a roof—here one can choose to finish at the well-known chain anchors or push on for a second pitch. This optional extension climbs the more fragile and lichen-covered rock to reach the summit, requiring additional caution but providing spectacular views of the Poudre Canyon surroundings.

Located in Colorado’s Poudre Canyon near Fort Collins, Grey Rat Rocksicle weaves through a quiet slice of the South Slabs, an area prized for its granite walls and moderate approach distances. The trail to the base is straightforward but demands alertness for route-finding amid scattered bushes and rocks. With an average rating of 5.8 R, the route’s risk factor is heightened by sparsely protectable sections, encouraging climbers to bring the smallest cams, nuts, and offset pieces to maximize security. Fixed hardware is minimal, though clipping the first two bolts of adjacent Shadow Dance can ease the opening runout if desired.

Gear preparation is key here: small passive protection and micro cams make or break the experience. Footwear with sticky edges enhances grip on the slab, while timing your ascent during midday light ensures comfortable visibility on the slightly shaded face. Hydrate well and prepare for variable temperatures; summers bring dry, warm conditions, but rapid weather shifts are possible.

Climbers should approach this classic route with respect for its runout sections and the delicate rock above the roof. A controlled descent involves a single rappel from the chain anchors back to the ledge, followed by a careful walk off the upper ledge down toward the approach point. Caution is advised given loose debris near the summit and limited natural handholds en route down. Grey Rat Rocksicle is a route that balances mental toughness with technical restraint, making it a meaningful outing for seasoned trad climbers ready to explore the South Slabs’ quieter side.

Climber Safety

Keep in mind the historical 'R' rating indicates risky runouts, especially near the start. Gear placements are limited and sometimes tricky to find, so make sure your small gear selection is sufficient. The upper section above the roof is loose and licheny—exercise extra caution and consider finishing at the chains if conditions seem unstable. Downclimbing near the summit is discouraged due to loose rock and poor holds; rappelling is strongly recommended.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Start from the large boulder 15-20 feet below the upper ledge for the optimal line.

Bring plenty of small cams and nuts; larger gear won’t protect this route well.

Avoid climbing when wet—the slab loses friction and becomes dangerously slick.

Plan to rappel from the chain anchors to descend safely; do not downclimb the upper section.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 R grade reflects a moderately difficult climb with significant runout sections that require confidence on slab and crack moves. While the climbing itself feels like a solid 5.8, the sparse protection and the need for small gear raise the seriousness level, making it feel more committing than a typical route of the same grade. Climbers familiar with nearby Shadow Dance will find similarities in the slab style but must be prepared for fewer fixed protection options.

Gear Requirements

Small camming devices, RPs, nuts, and offset pro are essential for the crack and seams. Protection is sparse and tricky, so pack a range of micro sizes for key placements. Clipping adjacent bolts from Shadow Dance can reduce risk on the opening moves.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Grey Rat Rocksicle and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

slab
crack
small gear
runout
Poudre Canyon
trad
moderate approach