5.9, Trad
Donner Summit
California ,USA
"Greener Pastures is a concise trad route on the southwest face of Grouse Slab, offering a well-protected 5.9 crack climb with a satisfying mix of technical jamming and moderate overhang. Perfect for those seeking a quiet challenge close to Donner Summit’s main climbing corridors."
Greener Pastures offers a focused, single-pitch trad climb that sits quietly on the southwest face of Grouse Slab, a short hike from the bustle of Donner Summit. This 40-foot crack route beckons climbers who appreciate subtle challenges wrapped in serene surroundings just off the beaten path. From the main parking area, the approach guides you uphill and left, past well-trodden trails and thick manzanita bushes that scratch softly as you move through them. Soon, the route reveals itself alongside other straightforward climbs, presenting a clean crack that arcs left briefly before rising sharply over a modest bulge.
The climb welcomes you with a well-protected yet delicate crack system, demanding precise hand jams and foot placements to navigate the vertical section. Small gear is essential here, as pro opportunities mostly hover around the 1-inch mark, making it ideal for climbers with confident 5.9 skills ready to test their finesse on more modest but technical placements. The crack’s slight overhang adds a compelling push, forcing climbers to engage core strength and body positioning just enough to feel the effort without tiring unnecessarily.
Top anchor bolts promise a safe finish, allowing for an easy rap or lowering back to the slab with minimal fuss. The exposure is moderate, with open views of the nearby pine forests and distant peaks, fostering a peaceful climbing experience away from high-traffic routes. The rock itself is solid granite, textured and grippy, inviting measured moves and steady progress.
For those planning the ascent, timing mid-morning or late afternoon offers the best light and temperature balance, as the southwest-facing wall receives ample sun through the warmer months but cools down into the evening. The short walk from the parking area is a perfect warm-up, winding through gentle elevation changes and fragrant chaparral, setting the tone for a rewarding climbing session. Hydration is important—water sources are limited, and the dry air can be deceptive.
Greener Pastures is an excellent choice for climbers transitioning from sport to trad or anyone looking to maintain sharp crack climbing skills in a scenic, approachable setting. The route’s concise length and moderate challenge enable multiple climbs in a day while soaking in the less crowded side of Donner Summit’s climbing options.
Exercise caution with gear placements; the crack offers small pro spots that require experience to place securely. The slab can be slick after rain, and the approach trail has some loose sections that call for attentive footwork.
Approach via the established PCT trail, looking for the nine routes of the Southwest Face.
Wear sturdy shoes as the manzanita trail is narrow and has some loose rocks.
Start climbs mid-morning to avoid the heat on the southwest-facing wall.
Double-check your small gear placements; pro opportunities are limited and delicate.
Bring small cams up to 1 inch for protection. The route features limited pro placements and relies on two bolts for a secure top anchor. Only solid 5.9 trad climbers should attempt this technical crack due to subtle and sometimes tricky gear placements.
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