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Green Book at Lowenbrau Pinnacle: A Classic Finger Crack Trad Climb

San Diego, California United States
finger crack
dihedral
trad
single pitch
bolted anchor
sun exposed
technique focused
Length: 30 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Green Book
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Green Book presents a 30-foot, sustained finger crack climb on Lowenbrau Pinnacle that tests steady technique and gear placement. Its accessible difficulty and secure anchor make it an ideal trad challenge in San Diego’s backcountry."

Green Book at Lowenbrau Pinnacle: A Classic Finger Crack Trad Climb

Green Book climbs with steady resolve up Lowenbrau Pinnacle’s rugged stone face, offering a focused and authentic trad climbing experience in the heart of McCain Valley. This one-pitch route stretches for 30 feet, weaving through a finger-width dihedral that demands precise hand jams and thoughtful body positioning. The rock here grips the fingers tightly, while small stemming corridors invite moments to shift weight and breathe—the climb never strays too far from its consistent challenge, rewarding climbers with a pure test of technique rather than outright power.

The approach carries you through the scrub-filled landscape of South San Diego County, where the air carries a faint hint of chaparral and the earth crunches pleasantly underfoot. The route’s position, exposed to sunlight for much of the day, means an early start or late afternoon session works best to avoid peak heat. As you ascend, the surrounding views open slowly but surely into the sweeping expanse of the valleys below, grounding you in a natural arena of rock, sky, and desert.

Protection here favors small to medium-sized cams, fitting snugly into the dihedral’s subtle flares and cracks. There’s an optional placement of larger pro near the top, a reassuring bulwark before you reach the bolted anchor at the summit. This setup speaks to the route’s commitment to trad ethics while still offering some security for cautious climbers aiming to push themselves.

Finishing moves transition into a fist-sized crack merging with collectible jugs, providing a satisfying conclusion that feels earned rather than forced. Whether you’re stepping up to 5.9 for the first time or savoring a dependable line that tests efficient gear management, Green Book delivers a climb that balances challenge with accessibility.

Plan for sturdy climbing shoes with sticky rubber for those tight jams, and bring plenty of water to stay alert in this sun-drenched zone. Early spring through fall provides the most reliable conditions, with weather too cold or wet quickly diminishing friction and comfort. The approach trail, though unmarked by signage, is straightforward but loose in spots—good footwear and steady footing are essential.

For anyone looking to sharpen their trad skills in a quietly confident setting far from the crowded crags, Green Book at Lowenbrau Pinnacle offers a concise and characteristic slice of San Diego’s climbing offerings.

Climber Safety

Rock is solid overall, but some loose fragments near the base demand caution especially while approaching. The climb’s short nature means quick top rope or lead retrieval, but careful protection placement is crucial to avoid runouts on smaller gear.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length30 feet

Local Tips

Start early to beat the intense midday sun on the exposed rock face.

Wear sticky-soled shoes to maximize grip on small jams and stemming sections.

Bring extra small cams for the tight finger cracks along the dihedral.

Keep an eye on loose rock near the base and approach trail; good footing is essential.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Green Book offers consistent difficulty throughout the climb with no big cruxes but steady technical moves requiring precise jams and stemming. The rating feels accurate for intermediate trad climbers and provides a reliable challenge comparable to other local trad routes at this grade in McCain Valley.

Gear Requirements

Small to medium cams fit well in the dihedral’s finger-width crack. Bring a set ranging from finger sizes up to medium cam sizes; a larger piece can be placed near the top for added security. A bolted anchor secures the finish.

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Tags

finger crack
dihedral
trad
single pitch
bolted anchor
sun exposed
technique focused