"Great Race offers a punchy single-pitch climb on Santa Barbara’s Central Coast, blending steep, technical moves with solid protection and a memorable finish on a bolted arete. It’s a must-do for climbers sharpening their 5.10 skills amid scenic coastal terrain."
Perched on the right wall of a rugged third-class gully in the San Ysidro area near Santa Barbara, the Great Race provides a sharp, engaging climb that packs steepness and subtle slab moves into a single pitch. The route’s lower section demands a quiet focus, as steep yet slightly slabby moves tease your balance and footwork, challenging climbers to stay precise before the rock relents into more generous holds above. Bucket-like grips higher up reward the effort, offering a confident sequence that feels both athletic and accessible for strong sport climbers.
The climb stretches just 70 feet vertically, making it a perfect choice when time is tight but you’re looking for a sharp dose of vertical adventure. Set against the backdrop of the Central Coast’s distinctive sandstone and shale, Great Race offers more than just climbing—it delivers a moment to connect with a landscape shaped by ocean winds and the shifting light of California’s coast. The wall faces a southwest aspect, soaking in the afternoon sun and cooling off nicely as evening approaches, so timing your ascent to avoid the midday heat is wise.
Protection is straightforward and reassuring: well-placed bolts lead you skyward, ending in a solid bolted anchor perched on a small arete. The bolts here were updated in 2007, featuring two 1/2-inch by 4-inch wedge bolts with rings, giving climbers confidence in the final clip. When top-roping, it’s best to use the anchor on the arete. This positioning reduces any unwanted swinging into the nearby trees, an important detail for keeping your session safe and comfortable.
Getting to the route is part of the experience. The access trail winds through coastal chaparral and scrub, offering a brief but refreshing walk that primes both body and mind for the challenge ahead. Descents invite options—rappelling from the bolted anchor directly or carefully heading down the gully. Both choices deserve respect; the gully’s loose terrain can be fickle underfoot, while the rappel is straightforward if you’re properly equipped.
Local climbers appreciate Great Race for its crisp, athletic moves balanced with the practical ease of a single-pitch sport climb. It’s a route that encourages commitment, rewarding precise foot placement and steady climbing rather than brute force. If you’re dialing in your 5.10 skills or seeking a robust warm-up before exploring more extensive climbs in the Santa Barbara area, Great Race is a precise strike of fun and focus.
Bring shoes suited for both smearing and edging, and pack plenty of water—Santa Barbara’s dry climate can drain your reserves faster than expected. Early morning or late afternoon climbing is ideal; the sun warms the rock just enough to enliven holds without sapping grip or stamina. Finally, keep an eye on local weather and seasonal conditions to avoid the occasional coastal fog or wind that can transform the climb’s character in subtle ways.
Great Race is more than just a sport climb—it’s a snapshot of Santa Barbara’s rugged coastline, a brief but intense moment where rock and climber meet in a disciplined dance that leaves you wanting more.
Be cautious on the gully descent—loose rock and uneven footing can be hazardous. When rappelling, double-check your anchor gear and rope setup to ensure a smooth and safe descent. Avoid top-rope swings by using the arete anchor instead of the back ledge bolts.
Top-rope from the anchor on the arete to avoid swinging into trees.
Approach trail is short but rocky; wear sturdy shoes for hiking in.
Avoid climbing in the heat of midday—morning or late afternoon offers the best rock temperatures.
Bring enough water; the coastal sun and dry climate can dehydrate even on short climbs.
Expect well-spaced bolts protecting steep to slightly slabby climbing. The bolted anchor on the arete is reliable and ideal for both lead climbing and top-rope setups. Use a sport rack and bring a double rope or 70-meter for rappels.
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