The Great Chimney Route cuts a compelling climb through one of Colorado's rugged playgrounds, the Castle in Buffalo Creek. This four-pitch trad ascent invites climbers to move through a sequence of natural features that demand both physical commitment and mental focus. It all begins below blocky roofs, where a broad chimney and conspicuous right-facing flakes open the way upward. The rock feels alive here—the chimney seems to push back, daring you to fit your body within its depths and find the holds that allow you passage. Pitch one demands chimneying skills, climbing about 125 feet mostly within constricted spaces where balance and smooth technique become your best allies.

From this ledge, pitch two ascends a corner and crack system rated 5.9-, offering a transition from seated chimney to more exposed crack climbing. The rock’s texture shifts, edges and seams beckoning you upward and slightly leftward until you reach a solid belay ledge. Here you pause to take in the scale of the Castle’s walls framed by looming pines and the clear Colorado sky.

Pitch three ventures across a main chimney system before arriving at a crack that looks more inviting but holds a crux at a roof that must be navigated on its right side. This move requires controlled power and patience, as the roof adds a technical challenge that spices up the route without overwhelming it. As you pull through, relief comes in the form of an easier belay stance.

The final pitch swings left toward a right-facing corner and follows a crack system climbing to the summit’s slabs. The passage here feels open and rewarding, with the finally reached platform offering sweeping views over the South Platte Valley. The climb’s 500-foot length is practical yet engaging, allowing climbers time to find rhythm and appreciate the sharp contrast between sheltered chimney climbing and open crack sequences.

Protecting this route requires gear up to 6 inches, giving climbers a straightforward rack setup. The quality of placements varies, requiring attention, especially at tricky sections like the roof on pitch three. Seasonal conditions in Buffalo Creek influence the experience; spring and fall offer cooler temperatures and stable weather, whereas summer may bring afternoon thunderstorms. Early starts ensure solid rock temperatures and minimize exposure to heat.

Approaching the Castle a short trek from Buffalo Creek’s trailheads, expect a moderately rugged trail through forested slopes leading to the base. The path is well-marked but involves some elevation gain and loose scree near the climb’s start. Descent typically follows a walk-off route from the top, but careful navigation is necessary to avoid loose rocks and maintain footing on the slabs.

For climbers in Colorado looking to test their chimney technique combined with varied crack climbing, the Great Chimney Route provides an accessible yet richly textured climb. The combination of tactile rock, changing crack systems, and a defining roof move rounds out an experience that feels both raw and rewarding, with enough challenge to keep seasoned trad enthusiasts engaged and newcomers intrigued.