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Grease Monkey at Olmsted Canyon

Tuolumne Meadows, California United States
hand crack
fist crack
trad
single pitch
granite
Olmsted Canyon
Yosemite
moderate difficulty
Length: 85 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Grease Monkey
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"A solid 85-foot trad climb in Olmsted Canyon offering right-leaning hand and fist cracks with reliable protection except near the top. Grease Monkey rewards steady crack technique and provides a smart warm-up or focused challenge in Tuolumne Meadows’ granite."

Grease Monkey at Olmsted Canyon

Grease Monkey offers a focused introduction to classic crack climbing within Yosemite’s Olmsted Canyon, a quiet pocket of the Tuolumne Meadows region known for its granite purity and thoughtful lines. This single-pitch trad route, stretching 85 feet, winds up a right-leaning hand and fist crack that tests steady technique and sound gear placement. Beginning low in a narrower crack that opens as you ascend, the climb demands transitioning smoothly from the lower section into a wider upper crack about 10 feet up, where the rock reveals more hand-sized jamming opportunities. Protection placements remain reassuring throughout most of the climb, with solid pro opportunities that give confidence even through the route’s crux—a subtly tricky 5.9 move just below the final ledge where the crack thins and demands precise body positioning.

The granite’s texture provides excellent friction, amplifying tactile feedback as each jam pulls you upward. Above the crux, the ledge acts as a comfortable halfway point offering a chance to pause and assess the final moves. The escape involves traversing left along the ledge to a lone tree, marking an easy walk-off that keeps descent efficient and safe. Gear-wise, a standard rack with a focus on 3 to 4 inch pieces is essential, plus a few smaller cams sized between 3/4 and 1 inch to properly anchor at the back of the upper ledge. Dirt accumulation means you may need to clear some rock dust to reveal the crack fully for reliable placements.

This climb fits well into a day exploring Olmsted Canyon’s collection of solid trad lines, providing moderate difficulty with a practical exposure level that welcomes climbers looking to sharpen crack climbing skills in a scenic and relatively quiet setting. Early morning to midday attempts benefit from south-facing sun warming the granite without baking it, while afternoon shade arrives promptly, cooling the rock.

Approaching Grease Monkey follows a short, well-trodden trail from the Olmsted Campground that cuts through forested ground, where the sounds of a nearby stream energize the air and nearby pine trees stand watch. It's a brief hike with light elevation change, making it accessible whether you’re packing light or scouting multiple climbs nearby.

Safety attention is needed on the final pitch section near the ledge, where protection thins and the tougher moves require both commitment and a well-planned sequence. Fall potential here is moderated but not trivial, so proper placement confidence and sticking the jam sequences are key. Expect the granite to present occasional sharp edges, so finger care and thoughtful movement preservation pay dividends.

For climbers looking to combine a manageable challenge with the timeless experience of Yosemite’s granite crack routes, Grease Monkey delivers a concise but engaging adventure. Its blend of crack sizes, reliable protection (save for the top few feet), and straightforward descent make it a satisfying single-pitch destination, especially when paired with other classics in the Olmsted Canyon area.

Climber Safety

Watch out near the top section where the crack thins and pro becomes sparse about six feet below the ledge. Be sure your placements are solid here and avoid loose dirt around the anchor zone which might reduce gear security.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Start early to catch the morning sun warming the granite before afternoon shade cools the wall.

Wear gloves or tape fingers to protect from occasional sharp edges in the crack.

Clear loose dirt from protection spots near the top ledge for dependable placements.

Use the tree at the ledge for a safe and straightforward walk-off after the climb.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 PG13 rating reflects a climb that feels generally solid with safe gear but hosts a crux just below the ledge where the crack narrows and protection thins slightly. This move nudges the difficulty upward compared to easier cracks in the area and asks for focused technique, but the overall rating is fair and comparable to other mid-level hand and fist crack climbs around Tuolumne.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack focusing on 3 to 4 inch cams, along with extra 3/4 to 1 inch pieces for a secure anchor on the upper ledge. Be prepared to clear dirt from placements near the top to ensure solid pro.

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Tags

hand crack
fist crack
trad
single pitch
granite
Olmsted Canyon
Yosemite
moderate difficulty