"Grants Route is a compact, demanding single-pitch climb on Kitselas’ Main Wall. With a steep corner feeding into a roof and solid anchors, it offers a blend of sport and trad protection tailored for climbers seeking controlled exposure and technique in British Columbia’s wild landscape."
Grants Route on the Main Wall’s right stretch in the Kitselas area presents a concise yet dynamic climb that balances straightforward movement with thoughtful protection. This single-pitch sport and top-rope line draws your focus immediately to a steep corner, demanding precise footwork as you push upward toward a fixed bolt. The route leads you into a challenging roof section—a feature that tests both your power and composure before you top out at shared anchors with the nearby Hovland Arete. This climb invites climbers who appreciate compact but engaging routes where the rock’s texture and subtle variations shape the experience. The granite here has a solid, abrasive personality, rewarding careful hand and foot placement while the surrounding forested slopes and distant mountain ridges provide a quiet backdrop to your ascent. To approach Grants Route, expect a manageable trailhead hike that threads through temperate rainforest before reaching the cliff base, with GPS coordinates at latitude 54.54896 and longitude -128.49727 guiding you precisely.
Protection calls for a mix of sport clipping and traditional gear placement. The fixed bolt near the corner offers reliable security, but you'll want a #2 or #3 Camalot for the lower crack section and a medium nut or .4 Camalot ready for the roof segment to minimize potential run outs through the trickier moves. These placements not only enhance safety but also build your confidence while confronting the roof’s overhanging challenge. The anchors at the summit are solid two-hanger systems with rings, making top-outs smooth whether you’re leading or establishing a top-rope.
Environmental conditions on this wall generally favor climbing in spring through early fall when precipitation lessens and the granite remains dry and grippy. The cliff faces mostly east, capturing morning sun that gently warms the rock and air, while afternoon shade offers relief on hotter days. Descent is straightforward; a single rappel down from the fixed anchors gets you safe and quick back to the base, with care taken to manage ropes around ledges. Local climbers appreciate Grants Route for its accessible location within the larger Kitselas recreational zone, where quiet natural beauty complements a variety of routes across the spectrum.
Whether you're sharpening your crack technique or craving a compact roof challenge, Grants Route provides a rewarding, approachable line that blends nature’s steady presence with a touch of technical variety. Prepare your rack carefully, stay mindful of rope management at the anchor, and savor the interplay of granite features and forested mountain views surrounding this British Columbia gem.
While anchors are secure, the roof demands attentive gear placement to reduce small run outs, and the sharp edge of the roof can wear rope if routed carelessly. Approach the descent with care, as rappelling from two-hanger anchors requires thorough knot checks and rope management to avoid snags on ledges.
Aim to climb in spring through early fall for the driest conditions.
Start early to benefit from morning sun on the east-facing wall.
Carefully manage rope runs around the roof to avoid drag.
Double-check your anchor setups—two hangars with rings provide solid but limited exit points.
Bring a standard sport rack with a focus on cams in the #2 and #3 range for the lower crack, medium nuts or a .4 Camalot for protecting the roof section, plus standard quickdraws for the bolt and anchors.
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