HomeClimbingGrant's Crack

Grant's Crack Yosemite Valley Trad Climb

Yosemite Valley,California ,United States
finger crack
trad
toprope
single pitch
granite
Yosemite Valley
technical
Grade: 5.9
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad, TR
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Grant's Crack
Aspect
South Facing

Grant's Crack

5.9, Trad, TR

Yosemite Valley

California ,United States

Overview

"A sharp, technical finger crack in Yosemite Valley, Grant's Crack serves up focused crack climbing with a straightforward approach and classic granite challenges. Ideal for trad climbers looking to finesse their technique on a single pitch near Yosemite Falls."

Grant's Crack Yosemite Valley Trad Climb

Grant's Crack is a concentrated burst of technical challenge just a stone's throw from the iconic Yosemite Falls. This single-pitch 60-foot climb offers a finger crack that demands precise hand and finger jams, testing climbers who aim to master their crack climbing technique in a classic Yosemite setting. The granite here is crisp and unforgiving, with sharp features that reward careful gear placement and focused movement.

The approach is straightforward, beginning from the well-trodden trails of Yosemite Valley’s North Side and heading towards Swan Slab. A short scramble up a gully with a sturdy tree on the left side provides the easiest access for toproping or lowering, making this route accessible for those wanting a clean practice climb or a confident warm-up.

Toprope enthusiasts will need to repurpose gear anchors since the original fixed top-rope anchors have been removed. Instead, placing a reliable gear anchor inside the crack itself is essential for safe lowering and rappelling. After topping out, an additional 15 to 20 feet of exposed terrain leads to a tree where rappelling is possible, so attention to efficient anchor building and a strong rappel setup is critical.

Though the climb holds a moderate 5.9 grade, the finger crack tests both physical strength and mental resolve. The small, intricate placements can push less experienced climbers to their limits, serving both as a challenge and a valuable skill-builder. With an average rating leaning toward the middle tiers at 2.7 stars from over 360 votes, it’s clear this climb appeals to climbers seeking a classic Yosemite crack without the need for longer, multi-pitch commitment.

Approaching in the early morning or late afternoon is ideal to avoid the harsh midday sun, as the wall faces predominantly north, offering cooler conditions and better friction on warmer days. Weather considerations, including the risk of sudden storms in Yosemite, mean preparation with layers and hydration is a must. Granite can become slick with moisture, so avoid climbing immediately after rain or heavy dew.

Gear-wise, a full set of small to medium cams will secure the crack, with an emphasis on finger-sized placements. Since there’s no fixed protection left, reliable trad gear skills are necessary. The granite is known for its solid consistency, but always test placements carefully before weighting them. The commitment is low with a single pitch, but the exposure above the crack means maintaining control is essential.

Grant's Crack offers an intimate slice of Yosemite’s climbing heritage, combining technical moves with a manageable scale. Perfect for climbers looking to hone crack climbing technique or those hunting an efficient rite of passage in one of America’s most storied climbing destinations.

Climber Safety

Be mindful that original toprope anchors have been removed; always build a solid gear anchor within the crack for safe lowering. Watch for exposure on the upper section and double-check anchor integrity before rappelling from the tree above.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.9
TypeTrad, TR
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Toprope by scrambling a gully left of the climb to reach a sturdy tree anchor.

Avoid climbing after rain or damp conditions to maintain good friction.

Bring gear suitable for finger-sized placements as the crack is tight and technical.

Approach early or late in the day to stay in cooler shade and enjoy better rock quality.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Grant's Crack offers a solid technical finger crack that feels justifiably challenging but fair. While the difficulty is approachable for intermediate climbers, the tight placements and technical jamming require practiced technique. Compared to other moderate routes in Yosemite, it leans toward the more focused crack climbing end of the spectrum but avoids any outright crux that would push it beyond the grade.

Gear Requirements

No fixed protection remains; a full rack of finger to medium cams is essential. Place gear within the crack carefully to build a secure anchor for top-roping or rappelling. The granite holds well but demands cautious placement.

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Tags

finger crack
trad
toprope
single pitch
granite
Yosemite Valley
technical