HomeClimbingGord's Block

Gord's Block: A Short but Intense Trad Challenge in The Smoke Bluffs

Squamish, British Columbia Canada
thin hand crack
overhanging
short trad
gymnastic moves
top rope option
solid gear
Length: 25 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Gord's Block
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Gord's Block presents a fierce, short trad climb just 25 feet high at The Smoke Bluffs. Its thin, overhanging hand crack demands stamina and precise gear placements, making it a prime test for crack climbers in the Squamish area."

Gord's Block: A Short but Intense Trad Challenge in The Smoke Bluffs

Gord's Block is a concentrated blast of technical climbing tucked into the rugged landscape of The Smoke Bluffs near Squamish, British Columbia. Despite its modest 25-foot height, this route demands a blend of precision and power as you negotiate a thin hand crack that leans slightly over the face. The crack calls for gymnastic finesse—each move loaded with intent and strength, perfectly balanced between physical challenge and mental focus. From the moment your hands lock into the crack, the rock feels alive, testing your finger strength and footwork as you push towards the chains at the top. The protection is reassuring, with placements for two #3 Camalots and a #1, but the overhanging nature means you’ll feel every ounce of effort as you crank through a burly final section. The surrounding rock adds to the experience—solid, with a touch of roughness that demands calculated movement.

Approaching Gord's Block is straightforward—a short walk from the nearby trail system within The Smoke Bluffs—but the crux waits patiently on the face, rewarding focused efforts. For those wary of the lead, the route offers an approachable top rope option by scrambling behind the imposing block, adding versatility for climbers warming up or wanting to experience the moves without committing to the lead. This accessibility pairs well with the physical challenge of the route, offering a quick, intense climbing experience that fits perfectly into a busy day at the bluffs.

Squamish’s cool coastal air and towering cedar and fir trees provide a refreshing backdrop, while the granite’s textured surface invites you to connect both physically and mentally with the climb. Prepare for a climb where every hold and jam feels earned, making Gord's Block an excellent test piece for trad climbers looking to sharpen crack skills in a scenic, well-loved climbing area. Plan a visit during dry, stable weather conditions when the rock is grippy, and bring gear suited to finger and hand cracks—campus shoes and stiff-soled climbing shoes work best here to maximize edge precision.

Though short, this route contains all the ingredients for a memorable climb: a demanding crack, solid gear, and an environment that quietly encourages focus. Whether you’re honing skills or chasing that satisfying redpoint, Gord's Block rewards prepared climbers with a stark, gritty taste of trad climbing mastery in one of Canada’s premier climbing zones.

Climber Safety

Watch your gear placements carefully on the overhanging section; while protection is solid, poor placements can increase fall consequences. Additionally, be mindful of the busy trail nearby to avoid loose rock hazard and respect the local climbing etiquette.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length25 feet

Local Tips

Scramble behind the block to set up a top rope if you want to rehearse the moves safely before leading.

Bring stiff-soled shoes with good edging ability for precise foot placements on the thin crack.

Climb during dry weather—The Smoke Bluffs can get slick in coastal humidity and rain.

Warm your fingers up with easier cracks nearby to prepare for the strenuous, gymnastic moves here.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating on Gord's Block accurately reflects a sustained, physical crux near the top where the crack leans over. While short, this route doesn’t soften the challenge—its thin hand crack requires bold, committed movements and precise footwork. Compared to other Smoke Bluffs classics, it feels more strenuous for its length due to the overhang and finger strength required.

Gear Requirements

Chain anchors secure the top, with protection best placed using two #3 Camalots and one #1 Camalot. Additional cams can support varied placements depending on your confidence and rack size. The protection placements are straightforward but expect the rock’s slight overhang to add challenge when placing gear.

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Tags

thin hand crack
overhanging
short trad
gymnastic moves
top rope option
solid gear