Adventure Collective

Goofy: A Shady Boulder Canyon Trad Classic

Boulder, Colorado United States
right-facing dihedral
chimney
loose rock
shady climb
short trad
Length: 90 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Goofy
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Goofy offers a concise but varied climb on Boulder Canyon’s shaded walls, blending chimney jams with face moves. A perfect quick trad outing equipped with modest gear and a belay off a sturdy tree."

Goofy: A Shady Boulder Canyon Trad Classic

Set against the rugged backdrop of Boulder Canyon, Goofy pitches itself as a compact adventure that combines straightforward climbing with a touch of subtle complexity. This short, single-pitch route climbs a right-facing dihedral and chimney system on the shaded wall just to the right of the imposing Goofy Spire. The cool shade offers relief on warm days, a quiet refuge amid the canyon's bustle. From the base, the route invites climbers into a narrow chimney peppered with loose blocks—a reminder of nature’s raw edge that demands respect and careful movement. The challenge here is not just the physical climbing but staying alert to the fragile rock underfoot and hand. The chimney occasionally opens to the right, where a few moves on the face give brief respite from the constricted space. Above the chimney’s top lies a tricky section where a yellow Alien cam placement protects a downclimb and traverse across a hollow flake, the kind of feature that dares you to commit but rewards with steady holds. The finish tracks back into the dihedral, guiding you smoothly to the crag’s summit, where a large tree offers a secure belay anchor and a moment to breathe in the crisp mountain air. Gear up with a rack featuring doubles of #1 Camalots and extend to a #3.5 for the wider placements. While protection can be spotty in places, thoughtful placement and patient searching keep risks manageable. Approach this climb with a sharp eye for loose rock, especially near the chimney entrance, and take your time navigating the tight moves. Whether you’re topping out after a quick morning ascent or squeezing this line into a longer day in the Canyon, Goofy delivers a practical climb wrapped in an intimate setting, with just enough adventure to keep your focus sharp and your spirit light.

Climber Safety

Loose blocks in the chimney require careful testing before weighting holds. The approach to the climb passes over a trail and road—avoid dislodging any rock that could endanger passersby below. Stay vigilant and controlled.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length90 feet

Local Tips

Watch for loose blocks inside the chimney—stay deliberate with every move.

Bring doubles of small to mid-size cams to ensure solid protection.

The large tree at the top provides a secure belay anchor.

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures on the shaded wall.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8 PG13
Quality
Consensus:At 5.8 PG13, Goofy offers moderate challenges with added caution needed for loose sections, making the grade feel slightly stiffer than the number suggests. The crux revolves around committing to somewhat insecure chimney moves and the delicate traverse near the hollow flake, rewarding climbers with a satisfying sense of balance and control. Compared to nearby Boulder Canyon classics, it sits comfortably in the beginner to intermediate trad range, but the added need for precision protection placement demands respect.

Gear Requirements

A full trad rack up to #3.5 Camalot works best, with doubles of #1 Camalots useful for small placements. Protection can be tricky near the chimney; a #11 hex is available for belaying 40 feet below the start.

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Tags

right-facing dihedral
chimney
loose rock
shady climb
short trad