"Goofer's Roof presents a manageable yet technical challenge on Sunshine Buttress’s East Wall, combining a tricky roof crack with a smooth slab finish. Its blend of trad and sport protection makes it a compelling option for climbers honing their roof skills in Colorado’s stunning 10 Mile Canyon."
Goofer's Roof offers a measured test of skill on the East Wall of Sunshine Buttress, tucked into the dramatic landscape of 10 Mile Canyon, Colorado. This short, single-pitch climb spans 70 feet but packs in a technical roof feature that commands respect without overwhelming. The route starts slightly right of the well-bolted Split Decision, following a right-trending crack and ledge system that winds steadily to an imposing, left-facing roof. Here, the rock seems to challenge you audibly—the crack under the roof almost seems to hum, demanding deliberate placements and steady movement to get through the tight, awkward overhang.
The rock’s texture beneath your fingertips is firm, typical of the Colorado walls around the area, with plenty of cracks offering opportunities for pro; the challenge isn’t just the difficulty rating but managing the roof’s exposure and body positioning. Beyond the roof, the climb eases onto a welcoming slab, a chance to shake out before reaching the final ledge and clipping a two-bolt anchor shared with the neighboring route, Dirty Sanchez.
Sunshine Buttress is carved from rugged stone and perched in a sweeping canyon setting, giving climbers a front-row seat to Colorado’s high-desert environment: pine-fringed ridgelines, bright blue skies, and distant peaks pressing the horizon. This route blends accessibility with a technical bite, making it attractive for those looking to push their crack and roof skills with moderate difficulty. The bolted anchor system and simple single-pitch length mean you won’t spend long on the route, but every move you make demands intent and attention.
Being primarily a trad line with some sport bolts, a well-rounded rack that emphasizes cams up to 3 inches will keep you safe and confident through the most exposed moments. Thanks to the clear anchors and relatively straightforward approach, climbers can fit this climb as an ideal warm-up or a technical touchpoint on a day spent exploring 10 Mile Canyon’s varied walls.
Plan your trip for dry conditions, as the route’s roof can accentuate slippery holds when damp. Footwear with reliable edging and moderate stickiness will reward careful placement, especially when working chimney-like sections through the roof. Early mornings or late afternoons provide ideal light on the East Wall, avoiding the harsh midday sun that can sap energy. Approach on solid trails that wind through open forest and scattered juniper, taking roughly 20 minutes from the nearest trailhead.
Goofer's Roof may feel approachable on paper, but it doesn’t underestimate the climber’s need for technical crack skills and comfort on roofs. Whether you’re revising your fundamentals or seeking a short but satisfying pitch that mixes traditional placements with sport clipping, this route delivers an engaging slice of Colorado climbing with the practicality and beauty that keep adventurers returning to 10 Mile Canyon year after year.
Watch for tricky placements in the roof crack; they require careful camouflage to avoid pulling out. The rock is solid but the roof introduces body tension that can expose fingers and shoulders to fatigue quickly. Also, be cautious of slippery conditions after rain—avoid attempting when the roof crack is damp.
Approach takes about 20 minutes on clear trails through pine and juniper forests.
Early morning or late afternoon climbs offer the best light and cooler temperatures.
Footwear with good edging is essential for the slab section above the roof.
Ensure your cams fit securely in the roof crack to protect the most exposed moves.
Bring a single rack of cams to 3 inches; the route requires solid crack protection through the roof, plus sport anchors with a two-bolt top anchor shared with Dirty Sanchez.
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