"Good Ship Venus delivers two pitches of solid, gritty trad climbing tucked into Eldorado Canyon's West Ridge. With a mix of chunky cracks, careful gear placements, and a descent that tests your rappel skills, this route offers seasoned climbers an authentic taste of Colorado’s classic trad terrain."
Good Ship Venus stakes its claim in Eldorado Canyon as a two-pitch trad route that balances raw character with honest climbing. Drawing its name from a famously risqué sea shanty, this climb embodies a sense of rugged adventure paired with a sharp edge of challenge. The approach begins at a prominent corner leading to a ledge below the Side Wall, where you step into a realm defined by chunky rock and unpredictable patches of choss that keep your focus locked on solid holds and placements.
The first pitch beckons with a series of parallel cracks, dirt-cloaked yet surprisingly dependable, demanding careful footwork and steady gear placement. The crux tests your commitment on the left-most crack, where positive holds meet well-protected spots, rewarding patience and precision. From here, the line arcs rightward, steering away from loose rock and edging beneath a gnarled tree jutting overhead—an omnipresent reminder of the climb's raw wilderness.
The belay station is anchored in the branches of that tree approximately 110 feet above the base, outfitted with fixed slings that ease transitions but advise caution. The second pitch veers just slightly left, climbing a right-facing corner that opens onto a cleaner ledge—a brief reward for the attentive climber. It continues through mixed cracks and subtle faces, trending right to another tree serving as the upper anchor equipped for rappels.
Protection calls for a standard trad rack, encompassing medium nuts through to #3 Camalots, with #4 optional depending on your confidence with longer runners. The route’s winding nature requires an abundance of 2-foot runners to manage rope drag around bulges and ledges. Stability is a priority here; while the rock generally holds firm, sporadic loose flakes demand vigilance, especially on gear placements and foot placements.
Approach is straightforward but demands respect: from the Pony Express trailhead, navigate through the West Ridge access until you reach the corner ledge beneath the Side Wall. Expect around 20 minutes of hiking across forested paths and talus slopes, with GPS coordinates placing you firmly within Eldorado’s unmistakable landscape just outside Boulder, Colorado.
Descent involves a rappel of roughly 100 feet from the top tree anchor back to the ground. If using a standard 60m rope, be mindful of rope stretch and ledge positions near the bottom to prevent snagging or short-offs. Alternatively, some climbers opt to traverse right after the last pitch towards the Long John Wall for a walk-off, which reduces exposure to loose rock and offers a gradual return to the base zone.
This route pairs gritty rock with engaging moves in a route that’s both approachable and demanding. For those looking to sharpen their crack climbing skills in Eldorado’s iconic setting without committing to lengthy pitches, Good Ship Venus offers a compact route filled with character and hands-on adventure. Be prepared to engage with nature as it presents itself—raw, challenging, and deeply rewarding.
Loose rock pervades some sections, particularly on ledges and near trees; maintain constant vigilance to avoid dislodging debris, and wear a helmet. The rappel anchors are fixed but sit in exposed trees—ensure solid equalization and check for wear. Be extra cautious with rope management on the 60m rappel to prevent rope hang-ups on the ledges.
Use long runners to reduce rope drag on the twisting pitch lines.
Watch for loose flakes; double-check gear placements before weighting them.
If your rope is 60m, be cautious on rappel to avoid snagging on ledges.
Consider traversing right to Long John Wall’s descent route to avoid unstable rock on the way down.
A standard trad rack including medium-sized nuts through #3 Camalots covers the protection needs well. Though a #4 Camalot can add security, many find it unnecessary for this route. Long 2-foot runners are a must to manage rope drag as the climb weaves through cracks, bulges, and ledges.
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