HomeClimbingGood Cleavage

Good Cleavage: A Technical Trad Climb at Eldorado Canyon

Boulder, Colorado United States
finger crack
right-facing dihedral
single pitch
medium gear placements
southwest facing
Eldorado Canyon
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Good Cleavage
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Good Cleavage offers a precise, technical crack climb on Eldorado Canyon’s Southwest prow. This single-pitch route balances sustained 5.8 moves with a challenging 5.9 crux, rewarding climbers with clean protection and compelling rock features."

Good Cleavage: A Technical Trad Climb at Eldorado Canyon

Approaching the Southwest-facing prow known locally as Sobo in Eldorado Canyon, Good Cleavage immediately grabs the eye—its defining feature is the right-facing dihedral branching off a wide crack that challenges climbers to read the rock with precision. The crack may appear roomy at first glance, but a narrower finger crack runs up along the dihedral's edge, maintaining a sustained challenge most of the way. This route showcases a polished blend of crack climbing skills with a steady rhythm of 5.8 moves punctuated by technical sections near the ground and a key 5.9 crux that tests your control and finesse.

Launching into the climb, the initial thin moves demand concentrated footwork and secure hand jams to work around the base and engage the dihedral system. As you ascend, the rock changes subtly, shifting from wide placements that accommodate medium-sized gear to more technical, smaller cracks where finger locks dominate. Although some larger cam placements are useful for peace of mind, the climb mainly rewards a smart rack focused on small to medium protection; experienced leaders capable of delicate gear choices may carry minimal wide options.

The pitch culminates at a broken dike—a natural barrier that offers two options: bypass right to a belay station under a large juniper tree or traverse left along an obvious ledge to the summit belay. The latter position is often preferred, secured with a handful of stoppers and around 3-inch cams, so packing an extra set of those sizes will streamline anchor building. From that vantage, the sweeping views over Boulder and the surrounding Front Range unfold below, a quiet pause before the descent.

Descending requires care: move north and left around the prow's corner, following an obvious ledge that skirts the rock’s edge until you encounter a cluster of trees. Here, climbers rappel as outlined in local Eldorado Canyon guides, ensuring a safe and efficient exit. For those planning their day, the approach to Sobo is straightforward but demands attention to timing and gear, as Southwestern exposure means afternoon shade fades early.

Good Cleavage appeals to climbers seeking a single-pitch trad climb with a clean line and moderate difficulty, combining technical crack work with natural protection options. It offers a gratifying test of gear placement judgment and crack climbing technique while remaining accessible to those comfortable on 5.9 terrain. Prepare for a day of steady climbing where every move matters, and the rock holds stories of wind and sun etched in its weathered surface.

Climber Safety

Although the route protects well, placements can space out in wider sections, especially near the offwidth crack. Exercise caution climbing through the broken dike and stay alert on the descent ledge where footing can be uneven and exposure moderate.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Approach Sobo early to avoid afternoon shade and cooler rock temperatures.

Bring a solid rack of small to medium cams to cover the finger crack and dihedral.

An extra set of 3-inch cams simplifies anchor building at the summit belay.

Review local rappel protocols as the descent involves navigating a ledge system and trees.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade on Good Cleavage feels true to its difficulty with a crux sequence requiring precise foot placement and secure hand jams on the finger crack. Though the climbing includes sustained 5.8 sections, the top moves bump up the effort, making this climb a reliable test for solid trad climbers. Unlike some local Eldorado routes that may feel soft on the grade, Good Cleavage demands steady technique and gear confidence throughout.

Gear Requirements

Essential gear includes a complete set of stoppers and TCUs, cams up to a #4 Friend, with extra 3-inch cams recommended for the summit belay anchor. Wide gear can be handy but is not mandatory.

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Tags

finger crack
right-facing dihedral
single pitch
medium gear placements
southwest facing
Eldorado Canyon