"Gonzo delivers two pitches of engaging trad climbing featuring a crisp finger crack and a roomy hand and fist crack on solid granite. It’s both accessible and technically rewarding, making it a standout choice in Eldorado Canyon."
Gonzo offers climbers a straightforward, hands-on trad climb that rewards with both technical moves and a genuine connection to Eldorado Canyon’s rugged granite. This two-pitch route begins in a distinct dihedral tucked between fins three and four, where a crisp finger crack beckons to those delicate jam techniques. The rock here is solid, textured with subtle edges and a natural line that arcs gracefully left, inviting a steady rhythm of jams as you ascend toward a small tree perched just beyond a large block. The first pitch balances just enough challenge to keep you alert without overwhelming, making it a great warm-up for the more demanding upper pitch.
Pitch two steps up the difficulty with a broad hand and fist crack climbing the face directly to the summit. This section demands bigger gear, with the likes of #3 Camalots and #1 Friends playing crucial roles in securing your progress against the vertical granite sweep. The crack’s spacious nature allows for confident placements, though some tricky spots test your ability to read the rock and find secure jams. The summit views, wide and open, reward your efforts, capturing Eldorado’s dramatic escarpments and the sheer beauty of the Front Range.
Getting to the base of Gonzo requires a trek along rugged trail edges winding through sandstone fins and rocky outcrops characteristic of Cadillac Crag. The approach, though not long, demands attention to footing and packs a quiet wilderness feel that contrasts with the more popular routes nearby. After topping out, descent is straightforward — a well-worn path leads northwest around the crag, winding down smoothly without the need for technical rappels.
Preparation is key for success here. Because Gonzo features demanding crack climbing, a standard trad rack supplemented with larger cams will be crucial, particularly for pitch two where securing larger placements is essential for safety and confidence. Climbers should hydrate adequately and prepare for sun exposure during warmer months, as the route faces north but sees sun in early to mid-morning. Early spring and fall bring optimal conditions, with cooler air and more stable weather that emphasize comfort and grip.
Whether you’re expanding your crack climbing repertoire or eyeing a less crowded route in Eldorado, Gonzo provides a solid two-pitch adventure blending technical skill with scenic reward. It’s practical enough to access without fuss but engaging enough to leave a lasting impression on any trad enthusiast’s logbook.
Watch for a few loose flakes near the base and the transition block on pitch one; maintain careful gear placements especially on the second pitch where runouts increase. The descent trail can be slippery after rain—proper footwear is recommended to avoid slips.
Approach via the established trail between fins 3 and 4 for direct access to the base of Gonzo.
Bring an extended rack focusing on larger cams for pitch two’s wide crack.
Start early to avoid warming sun exposure on the northern face during summer.
Use sticky rubber shoes for secure jams on both finger and hand cracks.
Standard trad rack required, including an extra #1 Friend and two #3 Camalots for the larger placements on pitch two. Smaller cams are useful for finger crack protection on the first pitch.
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