"Gollum’s Cave invites trad climbers into a striking limestone enclave with two pitches of varied crack climbing and stemming inside and outside a cool cave. With versatile protection needs and a moderate challenge, it’s an ideal climb for those seeking both technique and a unique rock environment near Welsford, New Brunswick."
Gollum's Cave offers a compelling two-pitch trad climb carved into the rugged geology of the Cochrane Lane Cliffs near Welsford, New Brunswick. The route begins inside a naturally formed cave, immediately immersing climbers in an intimate rock environment where the air carries a cool stillness and the stone feels both gritty and alive beneath your fingers. Your first moves trace a crack on the right wall, navigating past a prominent block that demands steady technique and focus. From here, the climb compellingly shifts to a stemming sequence with your back pressed against the cave’s rear wall, challenging your balance as you prepare to exit the shelter of the cave.
Once you break free into the open, the route extends rightwards up to a ledge where it intersects with the adjoining Reindeer Land climb. For the traditionalist eager to complete the classic experience, Gollum’s Cave remains a two-pitch affair totaling about 90 feet, but let loose the body and you can push the grade closer to 5.9 by avoiding the backwall stem altogether. Pro placement requires a diverse rack of cams and nuts, attuned to the variable crack widths and features along the way. Keep in mind, there’s no fixed anchor at the top of this route—climbers must traverse right for a third pitch to reach a secure belay station.
The setting itself is austere yet compelling: limestone cliffs rise sharply from a forested base, the surrounding air tinged with pine and the distant call of birds. Approaching the climb, you’ll cross gently sloping terrain framed by native hardwoods and firs, a link that connects you to the broader Cochrane Lane climbing scene. The route’s moderate grade and technical features make it accessible for climbers building trad experience while offering subtle challenges that reward mindful gear work and body positioning.
Timing your climb to avoid the harsh midday sun is wise; the cave's shade provides welcome relief in summer heat, while spring and fall offer crisp air that keeps muscles responsive. Because the route is slightly left-leaning in aspect, afternoon climbs benefit from cooling shadows, though weather can shift quickly. Descending entails a careful rappel or a downclimb to the ledge followed by a walk off the cliff, requiring awareness of loose rock near the bottom.
Gollum's Cave isn’t just a route; it’s a tactile conversation with rock and space, where nature’s raw edges meet climber’s resolve. Preparation is key—pack a mixed pro set, plan for no fixed top anchor, and keep an eye on local conditions to fully savor this engaging climb amidst the wild beauty of New Brunswick’s hinterlands.
No fixed anchor at the top means climbers must be prepared to establish their own or link over for a third pitch to a belay. Loose rock near the ledge and exit points calls for careful foot placement and attentive climbing.
Start early to beat afternoon heat; the cave offers shade but the cliff warms up quickly outside.
Use a moderate rack emphasizing small to medium cams for tricky placements in the cave crack.
Don’t skip the stemming technique out of the cave—it eases the climb and keeps the grade moderate.
Plan for a rappel from the extended anchor or a cautious downclimb to the ledge before hiking out.
Bring a rack with a range of cams and nuts to fit the crack sizes along the route. There is no fixed anchor at the top, so be prepared to extend and set your own anchors if pushing for the third pitch or rappelling.
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