"Golden Showers delivers a concise trad experience on Motherlode Rock's West Face, featuring a left-slanting crack that demands steady hand jams and thoughtful gear placements. It's a solid 50-foot challenge that balances technique with engagement amid striking natural textures."
Golden Showers offers a focused trad climb that captures the essence of the Motherlode Rock’s rugged West Face. This single-pitch, 50-foot route threads a left-slanting crack that begins amid weathered yellow lichen-streaked blocks, inviting climbers to engage with the rock’s raw texture and subtle angles. The start requires careful footwork along exfoliated surfaces that give way to an inviting ledge, perfect for brief rests and positioning before moving upward. From here, the climb leads into a sheltered alcove, where hand jams become the main mode of ascent.
This route stands out for its straightforward yet tactile challenge. Climbers must balance steady technique with strategic gear placement, as the crack opens to accommodate a versatile rack up to size #2 cams. Bolts occasionally cross the line, but traditional protection options dominate, delivering a satisfying trad experience with reliable chain anchors waiting at the top.
The location offers more than raw climbing—it sits within the San Bernardino Mountains, just north of the Big Bear Lake area. The rock’s sun-warmed surfaces and gently angled slant invite early morning efforts before the afternoon heat sets in. The approach to this route leads through rocky terrain typical of the Central Pinnacles region, with a short trek that rewards adventurers with expansive views and a sense of solitude away from busier climbing zones.
Preparation is key here: footwear with good edging and sticky rubber will help negotiate the slant and varied rock textures, while a standard rack ranging to #2 cams covers all protection needs. Climbers should be cautious when placing protection near the tree that hangs by the second gear point to avoid accidental rope swings. Hydration and sun protection are vital, especially during warmer seasons when the rock heats quickly.
Golden Showers embodies a purist trad experience shorn of unnecessary complexity. It’s approachable for climbers comfortable with a 5.9 rating looking to refine crack climbing skills in a setting that balances nature’s quiet with the thrill of height. From the exfoliated base blocks to the chain anchors above, every move combines physical engagement with an intimate connection to the West Face’s character.
Watch your rope management near the second piece, where a nearby tree poses the risk of an unintended rope swing if protection isn’t carefully placed. Also, the exfoliated blocks at the start require deliberate foot placements; avoid loose debris to prevent slips.
Approach early to avoid afternoon heat on the sun-exposed West Face.
Bring sticky-soled shoes for secure edging on exfoliated blocks.
Keep gear placements tight near the tree to protect your second from swinging.
Hydrate well and pack sun protection; the route offers little shade mid-climb.
A standard trad rack up to #2 cams is sufficient here, complemented by chain anchors at the top. Though bolts intersect the climb, gear placements dominate the protection strategy. Careful positioning near a tree around the second gear point helps avoid any rope swing issues.
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